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Subject: Gasket, sediment bowl

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murray2    Posted 04-28-2017 at 20:40:10 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Gasket, sediment bowl
  • Hi, having a problem getting a sediment bowl gasket to make a proper seal. The one
    purchased from a Ford dealer had a rubber gasket which did not stop the leak, have
    tried several cork gasket's none will stop the leak. The replacement sediment bowl
    assembly must be out of shape and prevents the proper seal. Thanks for any advice.
    Cheers Murray

    Joe in Texas    Posted 04-29-2017 at 10:58:08 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • I don't have a better solution, but thought I would share my experience.

    I got a 1950 8N side mount about four years ago that had been sitting for two years not running. Engine wise it was healthy, the previous owner thought the steering was too bad to use. That's another story for another thread. It's a wonder what lubrication will do...

    Anyway, after getting it running the bowl started dripping a bit. I got a new rubber gasket and promptly ruined it tightening it too tight. I found a pretty thick cork gasket, soaked in gasoline for about a week (not on purpose, just didn't have time to get back to it...) and installed it. It leaked right off, but I kept tightening the screw slightly until it stopped dripping. I didn't start it right then, it was another week before I had the motivation and the time. By then it was completely dry and didn't leak when I opened the valve. That's been almost four years without a problem. I was afraid I was going to break the glass but it took it just fine. I think it is an original bowl, but not sure.

    I like the little tractor and it does what I wanted it to do, just barely. I will never try and restore it, it's a tool for me and I will treat it as such, fixing what's not working right but using like it was intended.

    36 coupe    Posted 05-14-2017 at 19:11:53 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • Cork gaskets dry out and shrink.A motorcycle mechanic told me to soak them in water before using.He was right.I have found paper thermostat that leaked even with Permatex sealer on them.The paper wicked the coolant out.A new gasket fixed the problem.

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 05-01-2017 at 10:12:51 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • Joe,

    Glad to see you back on the board.

    When we last communicated you were facing some medical problems I believe.

    I'm still hoping for that picture of your reversed scoop.

    Jack - Iowa

    murray2    Posted 04-29-2017 at 11:58:55 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • Hi, Thanks for the information. I have been tinkering with this for a couple of
    months, getting a little frustrated/annoyed. Received some great suggestion's and
    ideas. Really great to post a message and have nice tractor people respond with very positive solution's. Now I am glad this happened the whey it did and I communicated
    with some very nice people. Cheers, Murray

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 04-28-2017 at 21:39:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • Turn the knob off fully, remove the bowl & carefully check the groove in the top of the assembly for dirt/crud/old gasket material. Most leaks on a new gasket are caused by:

    1. An incorrectly seated gasket.

    2. An incorrectly seated screen.

    3. A screen just slightly too big . (get out the scissors)

    4. Using gasket sealer

    5. Incorrect assembly of the screen/gasket

    Don't forget to check the bowl rim for chips; if it's chipped, you will never get it to stop leaking. Clean or replace the screen. You can get both the cork gasket & the screen from TSC; p/n 0237144. A cork gasket will work if you soak it first in gas, but I like rubber. Check out tip # 10 at the link below for the correct NAPA part number. However, the newer ones aren't as thick as the old ones and the price is now $4 each. I've got the new ones to work, but it takes a few tries. And, at $4 for a thinner gasket, I'm not planning on using the NAPA gaskets anymore.

    Look at the bowl; see the groove in the lip? That's for the screen. Put it in there & make sure it does not extend over the lip. If it does, trim it, but not too much or it will fall in the bowl. See the square hole in the screen? That because it needs it fit around the square fuel port in the top of the bowl when you assemble it. The gasket goes on next, on the lip of the bowl. Once you get it assembled on the tractor, hand tighten the thumb screw. (if it make you feel better, turn it about 1/8 turn w/ channel lock; no more, or you will distort the bail) Turn the gas on & look at the bowl. If it starts to fill the bowl, turn the gas off & start over; it has a leak.
    You will know it's sealed when gas does not flow into the bowl w/ the engine off. It won't fill with the bowl securely on because the float has closed the needle valve in the carb and there is nowhere for the air in the bowl to escape. (assuming the carb bowl is full) When the engine is started the needle valve will open and the trapped air will escape through the carb vent. If you loosen the bowl, it will fill.....and leak.

    All of the above assumes you have an style OEM sediment bowl. If not, I'd get one because a lot of the off-shore replacements never work right & the gaskets are odd-sized.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 04-28-2017 at 21:35:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • The cork gasket is best and should work, but your leak may be coming from the valve stem. There is a rubber seal inside the stem that gets chewed up over time and can cause leaks as a result. The valve stem can be purchased separately, and a lot cheaper than a whole new sediment bowl assembly too. Also, is the large brass fine mesh screen with the offset square hole in place on the bottom of assembly? Is the bail clamp connected in the right holes? Is the clamp nut tight? Although the sediment bowl base is soft metal, pewter usually, it still is pretty robust and would take tremendous force to warp by tightening the bail nut. Inspect the assembly closer and observe if indeed it is the valve stem leaking. A new one runs less than $10 at any Ford Tractor parts supplier. I'd try that before replacing the whole sediment bowl. Helpful Hint: Put a dab of Loctite Thread Sealer on the tiny 8-32 screw that secures the valve control knob on with. It will save you the headache of replacing later when it falls off in the field from vibration.

    R geiger    Posted 04-28-2017 at 21:23:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Gasket, sediment bowl
  • I have lapped the glass on silicon carbide wet dry paper and have good luck getting them to seal that way.

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