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Subject: how new should I go?

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Russ Moser    Posted 08-08-2017 at 16:35:03 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • how new should I go?
  • Hi--I have a 1952 8N which I like but it needs a lot of work(clutch, brakes, axle seals, oil pressure issues). Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 3000 which looks quite nice paint-wise. I would like to upgrade at least a little. At the least I would like live hydraulics. Live pto would be nice but not a deal breaker. More horsepower would be welcome. As far as appearance I certainly don't need show quality but don't want a total junker either. I know the 3000 would be a big leap. I've heard good things about them and I know it would fill my needs. One thing that concerns me is how different it would be in terms of attachments. I have a couple of 19-29 rear loaders that I hope to restore someday. I also have a carry-all and would dearly love to have a cordwood saw someday. Would the loaders, carry-all and saw fit on a 3000? Would a decent Jubilee, 600 or 800 be a better way to go? I know I should fix the 8N but I have limited skill and facilities and am at the point where I would rather spend my time driving a tractor than working on it. Thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

    Tom W    Posted 08-11-2017 at 20:26:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I agree with ultradog. I had a 2000 gas 8 speed with live pto. It had much more pulling power and stability than my 8n. The manual steering was hard to steer and this one did not have differential lock. The gas engine could be a little hard to start sometimes. I would try to get a 2000 or 3000 or 2600 or 3600 diesel with 8 speed, live pto, and power steering.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 08-09-2017 at 14:47:30 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • My current working tractors are a 2N, 8N, and a 3000.
    Three Tractors
    There isn't enough difference in size to matter much. The rounded hoods are easier to see around when trying to miss obstacles like trees. Even without power steering, my 3000 always steers easier than the 2N or 8N. The seat on the 3000 is much more comfortable than those pan seats. I would be singing many more praises for the 3000 if my N-Tractors hadn't both been upgraded with live hydraulics, and auxiliary transmissions. Unfortunately, the total cost of the 8N tractor, Sherman Combo, and Live Hydraulics was actually more than I paid for the 3000. The 3000 is a lot more tractor, capable of a lot more work. I use the same blade, cutter, disc, on any of the three tractors with no issues so far. I have not tried to run my backhoe attachment with the 3000, but don't see any reason it wouldn't work.
    KL

    SelectOSpeed    Posted 08-09-2017 at 17:36:56 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • KL, do you have the Sherman Live PTO attachment in the Ns? SoS.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 08-10-2017 at 10:48:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I know the Sherman live PTO exists, but have never seen one come available. If I did, someone else would likely have deeper pockets than I do. I got a really great deal on a Sherman combo when I stumbled on it about 10 years ago. Also got lucky and it turned out to only need a shift fork. I can't afford those anymore at current selling prices.
    When I compare the 3 tractors I have: the Ford 3000 has 8 gears, the 8N has 12 gears (Sherman combo), and the 2N has 6 gears (just a very noisy F&T overdrive in that one).
    For my use, the double clutch in the 3000 is a good thing, but far from essential, so I wouldn't pay premium prices to add a similar feature to my N-tractors.

    KL

    SelectOSpeed    Posted 08-10-2017 at 19:09:05 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I have a Sherman Live PTO complete, but don't know how to adjust it. Since it has clutches in it, I do not want to risk damaging it since it is basically unobtanium. I have searched high and low for installation instructions to no avail. That's why I asked. Ditto on the 3000 series, Damn fine tractors. SoS.

    JamesNAla    Posted 08-10-2017 at 21:24:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • There are apparently 2 versions of the ad-on Live PTO, one with a hydraulic line, the other without. Both will stop the tractor’s movement while allowing the PTO to continue to operate any equipment connected to the tractor.

    I have a 1954 NAA that has the unit that does NOT have the hydraulic connection. There is a lever, about 20 inches long. connected to the same plate the PTO engaging lever is on.

    As you said, this lever releases a clutch when it is moved forward, stopping the tractor. When ready to move again, allowing the spring-operated lever to return to its normal position causes the tractor to start moving. There IS a clutch involved so the lever should be eased back to its normal position. Otherwise, the tractor will lurch forward jerkily. Bad move.

    To adjust this unit, on the other (Right) inspection plate, there is
    an adjusting nut, along with a locking nut. Loosen the locking nut. Tighten the adjusting nut if the clutch slips or the tractor will not move at all. Turning the adjusting nut the other way can be a DISASTER if backed off its threads.
    This will require removing the top cover and reconnecting everything.

    Don't ask how I know this!

    HTH,

    JamesNAla

    SelectOSpeed    Posted 08-11-2017 at 06:26:09 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • Thanks JNA. I've pondered on what the Sherman procedure actually is since the range of adjustment is narrow. Something like the bands in a SOS where tightening to a specified torque, then backing off a certain amount of turns maybe. Your method makes sense and I may get my nerve up and try it someday. For now the unit makes a cool display piece. Thanks again, SoS

    Ed Gooding (VA)    Posted 08-09-2017 at 07:45:33 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I upgraded from my 8N to a '73 3000 with 8-speed high/low tranny and live PTO. Night and day difference between the two. The 3000 has about double the horse power and more weight. The 3-cylinder engine in them is virtually bullet proof and the swing-out battery tray makes the engine easy to maintain. Prices on Thousand Series tractors have plummeted over the last 10 years - you can get a very solid tractor for good money with these models.

    Here are some specs:


    Russ    Posted 08-08-2017 at 19:38:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • Looks like this one does have power steering. He says"it has the hi-lo transmission, 6 forward 2 reverse." I assume that is the same as what you are calling a six speed. I really appreciate your advice. Thanks.

    Ultradog MN    Posted 08-08-2017 at 18:17:03 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I've owned a couple of Ns, a few Hundreds and several of the 3 cylinder Thousand series. The 3000 and 3600 are my favorite tractor. Plenty of power, nimble, lots of options, reliable, not hard to work on, good parts availability and very familiar to someone who's previously owned a Ford. All of your cat 1 implements will fit except for 2 that I know of - the cordwood saw will not fold up properly like it will on an N and your rear loader will likely not work on one. Reason: the geometry on the lower lift arms is slightly different. If you get one skip the 4 speed transmission and hold out for one with a 6 or 8 speed. Most 8 speeds will have live pto. Some 6 sp will. And if possible hold out for one with power steering.
    I have both lpto and PS on my 3000. But if I could only have one I would definately take PS over lpto. The 3 cylinder 2000 is almost identical to a 3000 so keep an eye out for one of those too. They are almost identical machines. 3000 has a couple (4?) more ponies and was usually optioned better.
    Any of them can be had either gas or diesel. Don't despise a diesel. They are very good. Never, ever trust the hours on a 65-75 2/3/4/5000 unless you actually see the numbers turn over with your OWN EYES. The proof meters on them failed early and often. They up graded the proof meters on the 76-83 2600/3600 so those are usually accurate. If you are near central Minnesota, stop by some weekend and I'll put you on my 3000 D with 6' rotary mower for an hour or two. You will like it a lot.

    ncorrigible    Posted 08-09-2017 at 18:55:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • I agree with Ultradog and Ed - I have a 3000 diesel with 8 speed, 2 stage clutch, PS, Traction Lock, and the biggest flipping battery I have seen in a tractor. There are other good features, but power and fuel efficiency are the biggest. If you can afford to wait, I would much rather wait for an 8 speed, and I would strongly recommend the diesel for fuel economy even though the purchase price may be higher. Oh - and if you get PS you must have a wood neckers knob on the steering wheel. Mine must be as old as the tractor.

    I do not need my tractors in Minnesota winter, but I start and run them to well warmed monthly - neither of my 2 diesels or my remaining gasser ( an 871 ) let me down as long as I don't let their batteries down.

    Jimmyjack    Posted 08-08-2017 at 19:17:32 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: how new should I go?
  • Good Advice! Listen to the dog.

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