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Subject: timing screw

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Larry Holbrook    Posted 08-23-2017 at 09:06:22 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • timing screw
  • Never hear much mentioned on here about this timing screw on the front mount distributor. Maybe there has been and I just didn't see it. I remember when I put new points in the last time seeing and screw and figuring out what it did. This is kind of an interesting video on front mount distributors. Yes I'm an early riser so I have been watching videos before I go to work.

    Gaspump    Posted 08-23-2017 at 17:06:18 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Not ever much noted on the net about the timing screw and plate but it sure is part of the timing procedure as outlined in the "Operator's Manual" for the applicable year tractors

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 08-23-2017 at 10:59:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Do you mean the side breaker adjustment screw? That would be p/n 350101-S7 a 10-32 x 1/2 screw.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Larry Holbrook    Posted 08-23-2017 at 11:54:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • I just meant the timing adjustment there. Most of the things I read say don't mess with it and just put the points in. It should be correct. When I put mine in and tried to set the points as it said I didn't have the right gap. Had to move the sliding adjustment. Got them set and everything is fine. This was about a year ago. Put the high quality Blue Streak in from NAPA. What confusing to me is this. Did I set them right? Advanced or retarded? This is from the How To Section. If the points don't begin to open loosen the screw and slide the timing plate to retard or advance. That is what I had to do. Not sure what way I went. What should it be retard or advance? I just remember I had to loosen and slide it a ways and was kind of shocked at the time. I'll copy and paste. The last sentence is confusing.

    Place a straightedge on the wide side of the tang on the distributor shaft as shown in the photo. Rotate the distributor shaft in the normal direction until the straight edge is 1/4" away from the outside edge of the distributor mounting hole. The distributor points should just be starting to open. If not, adjust the timing plate position to advance or retard the timing.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 08-23-2017 at 13:53:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Yes, what Bruce(VA) detailed below is what I was trying to find. Also, each time you make an adjustment, you need to rotate the tang to take the backlash out. Don't try to move backwards and set point gap. Set gap, lock down, rotate a few times then check again. I also invested in a front mount timing jig TOH makes and sells -see picture. Take all the fluffing around with steel rules out of the equation. Faster too. Anyone wanting one can find his contact info at windyridgefarms in our LINKS forum. I'm not sure if it was the timing jig or the sleeve puller kits he was out of last time someone inquired. If he is out of jigs, fellow administrator here Farmer Dan made his own version before Dan made his so try him too.

    Front Mount Distributor Timing Jig -from TOH:


    Larry Holbrook    Posted 08-23-2017 at 15:53:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Thanks I'll inquire about one of those jigs. When I put the new points in a year ago I thought about getting one. I just did it the hard way till I got them set right. I'm not sure how long these will last and I need to do it again. I mow a little in the summer and clean snow off drive in winter. Last winter was so mild it sat in the barn and didn't get ran much. I'm pretty sure I got them right though. It starts right up and runs better than ever. Thanks again.

    Bruce ( VA)    Posted 08-23-2017 at 12:33:31 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4° of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

    Gary (GA)    Posted 08-27-2017 at 08:42:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Bruce,
    I would be a grand idea if you would make YouTube videos of the tips and tricks which you have learned/developed over the years. Nothing fancy, just the facts ma'am. Surely some youngster thereabouts has GoPro and can do the computer stuff.

    Written is just fine; however, some of us are more visual and a video can contain much, much more information than can a written text.

    Give it some thought and let us know if you do as I would be an immediate subscriber!!!

    Larry Holbrook    Posted 08-23-2017 at 15:54:51 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: timing screw
  • Now this makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. If this was Facebook I'd click on LIKE.

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