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Subject: Paint prep on the 8n

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Tom    Posted 10-11-2017 at 09:48:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Paint prep on the 8n
  • I'm getting ready to paint my grandpa's 8n. So far I've taken my time and I want this to be a show tractor. My only concern is that I only have a 30 gallon 120V craftsman air compressor. Will this work for sandblasting the tractor, or am I better off using a chemical paint stripper? Thanks in advance!

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 10-11-2017 at 13:01:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • There is plenty of info in the archives on 8N restorations -just plug in the keywords. I'd do a bit of research first before deciding which way to go. John Smith (WWW.8NFORD.COM) did his 8Ns right -complete tear downs and rebuilds before painting. Here is what Steve Dabrowski did -see link. When I did my 8N in 2003 I took all the sheet metal to a local bump shop. They blasted, primed, and painted all of it for $180. That includes hood, fenders, doglegs, front and rear rims, grille, and a few extra small parts like headlights, taillight, cyclone. Since my air compressor was not large enough I did all the red cast parts first with brushes, then touch up with rattle cans. Next time I will spring for the John Smith method and a much better brand of paint.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 10-11-2017 at 20:01:52 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Just a note on the blasting-after taking it fully apart I found not even a spec of dust or blasting material inside any part of the machine. Good prep can prevent problems.

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 10-11-2017 at 10:15:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • It won't work. Not enough volume. ( cfm )

    Best use electrolysis . Cheaper & safer.

    Jim    Posted 10-15-2017 at 09:24:21 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Would you describe in some detail how you do this? Thanks

    Tom    Posted 10-11-2017 at 13:16:27 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • How many cfm would it need? May just get a bigger air compressor.

    TheOldHokie    Posted 10-11-2017 at 15:54:44 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Get everything disassembled and ready to blast. Also be ready to prime within 24 hours after the blasting to prevent flash rusting. Then go rent a "small" tow behind compressor from a local rental center. My center charges $75/day for this 180 CFM compressor. Unless you have a pot large enough to do bridges it will run your blaster all day non-stop. You will run out of media nad/or eat up your nozzles before you run out of air. They typically rent with 50' of hose but you need to make sure you have the appropriate crowfoot coupler to connect it to your pot. Then have fun - not ;-)


    Tom    Posted 10-11-2017 at 17:30:56 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Great idea- I think this is the new plan!

    TheOldHokie    Posted 10-11-2017 at 18:26:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • If you have never done any large scale blasting here are a couple things to keep in mind

    • With unlimited air you will go through media FAST.
    • Make sure you know how much your blaster will use per hour and stock up acccordingly
    • Consumer grade blast nozzles don't last long - you will be lucky to get an hour out of a ceramic nozzle
    • You will have lots of pressure and it will hold steady rather than drop off as you blast
    • Throttle back on the sheet metal
    • Nothing worse than running out of something with half a day left on the rental

    andy wildman    Posted 10-11-2017 at 14:28:42 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • It has been my experience, you need about 20 cfm for a small sandblaster to run continuous. Most manufacturers will list the required cfm for a particular tool if you are lucky enough to have the owners manual or find the website.

    Jimmyjack    Posted 10-11-2017 at 10:30:07 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Electrolysis only works line of sight, and basically on rust. Great on smaller parts, but sheet metal is a bit more tricky. Depends too if their is any paint left or if it is solid rust. If you dont push the compressor and let it recharge you might get some use, if you have the pot try it. I also have a smaller quart size blaster that works quite well on smaller areas. Good old sandpaper will work also.

    Bruce ( VA)    Posted 10-11-2017 at 12:08:39 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • Works just on rust? Sorry, but that's incorrect. I've restored 3 8N's, plus stripped plenty of model a parts to bare metal. I have a 100 gallon plastic stock tank and electrodes on both sides. As to line of sight, yes.....so you move the part or electrode. The only thing I've had a problem stripping is powder coated wheels.

    Peter MacInnis    Posted 10-12-2017 at 16:42:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • I found the best way to get rid of rust is to use a product called "rust converter". to use this product, scrape the loose rust by hand with a wire brush. Leave the firmly attached rust on the metal. Paint the rust converter on and let it dry. It will bond and change the rust to a smooth black surface. Then prime and paint. Does it last? I used this on the ships when I was in the Canadian Navy. There were two spots on the deck that always rusted from salt water sitting. One spot I chipped, cleaned to bare metal, primed and painted. It lasted 6 months before I redid it. The other spot done with rust converter did not need to be looked at for at least 5 years. I was retired after that time.

    Jimmyjack    Posted 10-11-2017 at 17:58:50 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • You are correct, I did say basically. If you leave it in the solution long enough the paint will bubble off, but not at good as the iron oxide removal. You still might have to scrape blisters off.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 10-12-2017 at 13:50:31 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • From what I have seen in my electrolysis tank. Plain washing soda changes rust to a black oxide coating. Grease and dirt come off with the bubbles. Surfaces that are bare metal seem to darken slightly. Paint will bubble off if it has cracks or has rust under it. Good paint does not move or change, even after 24 hours in the tank.
    I think this grill was brushed with a stiff bristle brush after a few hours, then put back in the tank and left to cook at 2 amps overnight. This is what it looked like when I pulled it out and dried it off.

    There are some little bits of paint left at the end of each bar. They were loose and came off easy.

    Flathead V8 oil pan after several hours, with no brushing or scraping.

    The paint was in bad shape, and there appeared to be no primer.

    Bruce(OR)    Posted 10-11-2017 at 12:33:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Paint prep on the 8n
  • I have forgotten, but I believe sodium hydroxide, also known as lye, takes off everything. Grease, paint, rust all the way to bare metal. Washing powder
    (Arm & Hammer) takes off rust and paint, but not grease. If your tank leaks lye, you have an industrial sized mess. If it leaks washing powder, you have fertilizer.
    I run a 50 gallon plastic barrel with lye in it. My first barrel had a metal drain valve at the bottom of it. It leaked. Clean up took a while. My second tank 275 gallon, is sitting and waiting for me to put it into use and quite possibly with washing powder. No metal drain valve at the bottom.

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