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Subject: 1941 - 9N

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D Baethge    Posted 12-16-2017 at 16:11:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 1941 - 9N
  • I recently acquired my Opa and my dads 9N. It purred like a top. The carb needle did not hold so fuel leaked t==straight through but other than that ran great. Dad had it overhauled completely 30 years ago and has no mechanical problems. The battery went dead. I dropped another battery in it with a charger and forgot to turn off the key. Later I came back and the coil and electronic ignition had burnt and melted. I replaced them both. It started and ran like crap. I replaced the spark plugs. No change. Replaced the 30 year old wires. No change. Moved the front distributor timing adjustment. No change. Removed and rebuilt the carburetor. It purrs on idle now but stumbles and cuts out on acceleration and will die if not taking back to idle quickly. All the help pages I find show how to set timing with points and not electronic ignition. I don't know which direction to go now. It was converted to 12volts years ago and had an inline ignition resister, It has 12 volt coil, points, battery and alternator so I removed the resister so the ignition has the full 12 volts. Any thoughts or direction would be appreciated.

    Dave Smith    Posted 12-17-2017 at 15:48:05 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • I am not very good at explaining things. So if you have any questions just ask.
    I had problems with my 41 9N running hot with Pertronix Ignitor. I had the radiator cleaned and was sure the block was clean inside the cooling system. It still ran hot mowing lawn. I spent the money
    for a new 4 row radiator and it still ran hot. Then a buddy of mine reminded me of the model T
    Fords. They had a spark advance lever on the steeling column. You retarded the spark for starting
    (especially with a crank) then after it was running you hand advanced the spark. If you forgot to advance the spark, it would run hot. So I added timing marks. Look in the how tos to see how I
    did it with the head off. (Under Engine)First be sure the distributer is as it should be (bushings and fly weights)
    I found that the instructions for the timing of the front mount disributer from Pertronix was way
    slow. I had to really futs with it to get it right. After I got it set right, no more over heating problems
    and it starts a lot faster, easyer and runs a lot better.

    There is a way to add timing marks without removing the head using a VOM. A analog VOM works best. First remove all the spark plugs. Use a stiff piece of copper insulated wires with both ends striped back about a half inch. Connect the VOM to one lead and the other end to a GOOD ground. Be sure you are working on the number one piston coming up on power stroke with both valves closed . Insert the other bare end of the wire into number 1 piston hole.Slowly
    turn the engine over by hand. With the VOM set on OHMS. As soon as you see the VOM show continuity with the piston top. STOP mark the front pulley and block with a piece of chalk. Continue turning the engine over slowly as soon as you see the VOM loose continuity. STOP Mark the
    pulley and block again in a different spot. Do this 2 or 3 times to be sure you have it right. Dead center between the marks should be top dead center.
    Mark the TDC on the pulley and block. That should give you ) degrees. Carefully measure the
    circumference of the pulley. Dived that by 360, That will give you the distance of 1 degree. Multiply
    that by 4 and add a mark on the pulley that is where you should set the timing at 400 RPM
    Dave <*)))><

    Larry (TX)    Posted 12-17-2017 at 11:07:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • Though you didn't specify which brand of EI you're using, if it is Pertronix, I'd recommend that you call their technical dept. @ 909 547- 9058 tomorrow and let them walk you through the process to hopefully correct the problem you're having. The Pertronix Co. is located in San Dimas California, thus they're in the Pacific Time zone, so depending on which zone you're in, you may have to wait a few hours to contact them.

    I've been using the Pertronix IE kits on several of my vintage collector tractors and jeeps for the past few years due to the high humidity we have here near the Texas Gulf Coast and to date, none of those kits have failed. Once corrected, you will however have to start remembering to switch off the power, and I'd go so far as to remove the ignition switch key every time so that no one else could switch the power on.

    D Baethge    Posted 12-16-2017 at 22:05:51 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • Thank you for the input. I'm gonna check the weights and inside of the distributor. I have been adjusting the timing at high speed and get no resemblance of smooth operation. EI could be defective? That did not cross my mind. Last resort I will go back to points if needed. Tractor did not keep a steady smooth speed under load plowing with Points I seem to recall dad saying is why he changed to EI. He also said the distributor was wore out but I found no slop in it. You all gave me some things to check out further so I'm not at a dead end yet. Thanks again.

    TheOldHokie    Posted 12-16-2017 at 17:48:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • The problems started after you replaced the coil and ignition module. That is where I would focus my attention.


    FarmerBrown    Posted 12-17-2017 at 13:18:30 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • Best advice.

    deanostoybox    Posted 12-16-2017 at 17:27:33 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • A few months ago a friend had a Pertronix ignition module for a front mount distributor that was defective out of the box. We put points back in and tractor runs fine. It had the same symptoms as you describe.


    Bruce (VA)    Posted 12-16-2017 at 16:52:32 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • Well, you've now discovered 2 "well kept secrets" about EI. The modules burn up if you leave the key on and there is no easy way to set the timing.

    Trail & error is the only practical way.

    Loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4 of timing. I'd advance it 8* and see what happens.

    Wen you pull the distributor, check the advance weights. Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move and the slots should not be wallowed out.

    D Baethge    Posted 12-16-2017 at 16:14:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1941 - 9N
  • Correction... It has no points. Its Electronic.

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