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Subject: maintenance

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Doug    Posted 12-29-2017 at 09:55:02 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • maintenance
  • Well my folks headed to Florida for the winter so i am going to take over the garage and do some needed maintenance on my '53. All fluids need to be changed, hydraulic fluid is full of water and frozen and the oil hasn't been done in some time. the three point drops with an implement or a trailer on it, so i would like to address that as well. the right hub and axle seal need to be replaced.

    so the '52 will come home and act as the plow tractor for the winter, here's to hoping the 6v likes temps in the teens lol. i have a small magnetic block heater and a blanket, should do the trick i hope. or i break out the old snow shovel.

    Jim    Posted 01-10-2018 at 08:05:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • You may have completed the hydraulic repairs by now but if not check on the video sold by Steiner Tractor and others on the subject for the NAA. It is about an hour long and pretty detailed. Also, there are a lot of vids on YouTube on the subject some of which are quite helpful.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 01-02-2018 at 16:08:42 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • In addition to any sort of lift, or hoist, another thing that helps set the top cover back on is to make some guide pins. Get some cheap hardware (2-4 bolts about 2-3 inches long) with the correct thread. Saw the heads off, grind the ends round. Now you have guide pins that will hold the gasket in place better than any gasket glue. The pins will guide the cover back on, without sliding sideways. Once a few bolts are started in other holes, remove the pins.

    BlasterStumps    Posted 12-29-2017 at 10:39:21 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • remember to back out the valve a few turns under the big acorn nut on the side of the housing before attempting to remove top cover. I would follow your manual on this.

    can you rig up a rope block set or a strap hoist over the hydraulic housing so you can lift the top cover and then reset it when you have it done?

    Also, I would suggest a new piston along with the O-ring. But look at the cylinder close to be sure it isn't scored. I honed mine a little.

    Spend plenty of time cleaning the mating surfaces for the top cover. I only put sealer in enough spots to keep the gasket from shifting as I set the top back on.

    doug    Posted 12-29-2017 at 11:02:19 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • my dad has a chain pull set up in the garage so pulling the top cover should be no issue. except i have never done it before and will have no clue what i am doing.

    RonMary    Posted 12-30-2017 at 02:50:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • Doug, as you confess to being new at this, in addition to the advice you have already been given, make certain you take out all of the perimeter bolts (including the two on the manifold plate) before taking off the lift cover. Missing even one of them is an invitation to a broken cast iron hydraulic reservoir. That would be an expensive fix requiring splitting the tractor and buying a new housing. I'm embarrassed to say we have made that mistake.

    BlasterStumps    Posted 12-29-2017 at 11:45:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • The top cover is very heavy so getting someone to help you with it might be a good idea. If you don't have a repair manual, you can find a lot of info online and on this site on the hydraulics. The NAA hydraulics is mostly in the top cover. Once you back the valve out on the side like I mention then the cover should come off. If someone used a lot of sealer before, you will have fun getting it loose. One place to pay particular attention to is the area where the oil line comes up in the front right corner of the housing. sometimes there are leaks at this spot and getting the damage to the housing fixed can be troublesome. Need to look close at that area. Be sure to check the linkage for wear and then it is advisable to check the adjustments of the linkage. Cleaning the housing can be accomplished with a sprayer and lots of rags. It's a pain.
    One more word of caution, be prepared for about 5-gal of oil to come out fast when you pull the plug.

    BlasterStumps    Posted 12-29-2017 at 11:50:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • Here's a helpful link from the HOW-To's of this site

    Kirk-NJ    Posted 12-29-2017 at 10:28:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • 6volt will be ok if you're wiring is good, strong battery with right size cables and good compression and good tune up parts. Block heater will probably help if you have straight 30W oil.
    Have a bunch of 6 volt tractors that run all winter

    Kirk

    doug    Posted 12-29-2017 at 11:51:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • did a full tune up in the fall, new battery at the same time. cables are good with new battery terminals. i strongly believe it needs a new carb though, one of the adjustment needle does nothing. i rebuilt it, my dad went back and did it the right way and still nothing. we had a shop go over it and they found nothing wrong. so i guess a new or re-man one is in order.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 01-02-2018 at 16:46:33 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • Carb is the first place many people suspect to be a problem, when it should be the last. It has something to do with how easy it is to twiddle all those little screws. Once properly set, carb screws shouldn't move by themselves, and the only periodic adjustment is at tune-up time. If a carb adjustment doesn't go right back close to where it was, the carb is dirty. Rather than twiddling screws to some goofy adjustment to compensate, I swap a clean carb on there, and put the dirty one in my pile of stuff to be rebuilt. This saves all the time and frustration of dealing with a dirty carb.

    Nine times out of ten, when any of my tractors develop a sudden no-start problem, it's going to be electrical or ignition-related. If electrical and ignition check out ok, the next thing to check is fuel level and fuel flow. Very few carb problems happen suddenly (unless the linkage fell apart or someone started twiddling screws and instantly added "carb adjustment" to the list of problems).

    JMOR    Posted 12-29-2017 at 12:04:00 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: maintenance
  • It is normal for the idle mix screw to do nothing UNLESS the rpm is very, very slow. Otherwise it will be operating on the main power or transition circuits.

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