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Subject: fuel bowl assembly

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Clarke    Posted 02-19-2018 at 12:03:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • fuel bowl assembly
  • Two requests:
    1. I have seen many postings about the fuel bowl assembly. Some of these advise to replace “all three screens”. On my ’51 8N the one at the carburetor elbow and the disk one right above the bowl are good, but the cylindrical one that is atop the unit in the tank is missing (broken off: the base part with the solder is still attached.) I don’t see this screen available on any parts website although the other two are. Can anyone tell me where I can get one? And if so, how would I remove the still-attached remainder and install the new one? I’m scared of trying to unsolder and re-solder to this kind of metal. If I can get this upper screen and attach it, I would also replace the stem and the bowl gasket, “rebuilding” the unit.

    2. If I fail at this, I would like to get the best bowl assembly I can, but I can’t find on the forum any recent evaluations of the available ones. Some look exactly alike in different outfits’ pictures, but have been described as “junk”. Any help here might help more than just me. Thanks so much for advice.

    Ozlabder    Posted 02-20-2018 at 21:22:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • The screen should still be in the tank.
    I can't imagine how it would get out.

    I found mine and JB welded it back on.
    Very easy to do.

    I think the idea is all the crud falls to the bottom of the tank. Shouldn't get deep enough to get in the tube for the main tank.
    When you go to reserve, the crud on the bottom needs to be filtered out.

    Clarke    Posted 02-21-2018 at 09:26:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Thanks much for the suggestion. No screen in the tank. It's likely it was broken off when someone had removed the assembly, for what purpose I can't imagine. I suspect that this is the actual original valve/bowl. I think I've never used the reserve tank capability! I couldn't get the reserve port clear of deposits anyway.

    Clarke    Posted 02-20-2018 at 17:46:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Thank you all for the kind help. This was my first time posting on a forum and it's been challenging to me, an old and tech-inexperienced codger. I got the one from Dennis Carpenter because it was the most expensive one. It hasn't any reviews. There's one "by RTP" from Bestway Equipment Inc through Amazon that has many top reviews. I saw that after I ordered the one from DC.

    I had wondered if I could just leave off the top screen and forfeit the reserve gallon, since the tank is pretty clean, it's run out of gas but twice in over forty years, and I'm never over 500 yards from a can.

    I hope I can bother you guys again soon. There's many a slip twixt this cup and the lip (ignition weirdness, hydraulic issues, oil leaks, e.g.)

    E Geiger    Posted 02-20-2018 at 11:03:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • you could just use it without the screen on the inside, It does no or very little filtering of the main fuel anyway, look at the picture tim put on, the main flow tube is above the screen.

    Rustyal    Posted 02-20-2018 at 07:59:31 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • You have to put a couple drops of locktite on the new sediment bowl knob screw. Or it will try to keep unscrewing on you. And be very careful attaching the fuel lines. A little Teflon tape on the threads going in the tank.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 02-20-2018 at 05:56:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Unfortunately, many of today's aftermarket Sediment Bulb Assemblies makers do not solder that vertical fine mesh screen on anymore; it is simply glued on. After a while the gas dissolves the glue and it falls off. You won't have much luck soldering to the pewter base so best to just buy new - see LINK.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    don b    Posted 02-20-2018 at 14:40:01 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Tim....you working for Dennis now? I notice that you insert a link to his parts almost daily. don b

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 02-21-2018 at 07:41:37 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Just making it clear there are a handful of reliable part sources Don, not Just8Ns. We have been accused of favoritism here before by other suppliers. Since Carpenter is the only licensed by Ford supplier that repops many of the parts, and everyone else sells them now, it is only fair. Yes, I know you were instrumental in getting Carpenter started in Ford tractor parts back when. I believe I have made a goodly share of equal mention of Just8Ns over the years as well. No disrespect intended, but I shop at many places: STEINERS, NAPA, CNH, and my local KUBOTA dealer since they used to be a Ford Tractor dealer and stock many parts, makes, and models including the TISCO line and some Carpenter parts too.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    R Geiger    Posted 02-19-2018 at 12:22:12 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • It would be difficult to try and resolder a screen back on,IF you could find one, unless you knew what you were doing. Just8ns will have just as good a sediment bowl you can find.

    36 coupe    Posted 02-22-2018 at 15:32:51 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • JD dealer wanted 8 bucks for an elbow fitting with screen.Got a small engine gas shut off valve for 89 cents.Unsoldered the screen and put the new one in the old elbow.Zinc castings solder well if clean.One of the best skills you can aquire is soldering.I was bout 12 when I learned to solder.

    Jim    Posted 02-23-2018 at 23:10:01 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • How about discussing some of your solder pointers as a help to all of us who struggle with doing it correctly-mainly me, that is. Thanks

    36 coupe    Posted 02-25-2018 at 07:40:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • First pointer is watch out for junk solder.Dont buy 5.00 solder..Junk solder is stiff on the spool,hard to bend.Melts with a gritty texture.Use a solder paste,NOKORODE is still sold.Material you solder has to be clean,dont touch any surface after you have cleaned it.Wire must be super clean, cut back to brite wire.Crimped on battery charger clips often develope poor connections that heat up while the battery is charging . Clean and solder any connections that heat.Use copper clips,real copper not the coper plated junk sold now.If you are fooling with soldering pennies into starter switches now that new pennies are zinc with copper plate.They solder but zinc is a poor conductor.Im not sure why you are soldering pennies into starter swiches but sounds liks a dumb idea.On big jobs where you use a propane torch you need a special tip with a copper head that fits on the torch head.If a flame touches the flux it justs burns up.You can collect pine pitch to use as flux.Do not use lead free solder on general soldering.50/50 solder is best for most jobs.60/40 solder is used in electronics.Silver bearing solder is a different matter.I have used it on band saw blades.Very expensive stuff.TO sum up.Surfaces have to be clean and dont touch.Hot carbon soldering uses equipment that most of you wont have.

    Jim    Posted 02-25-2018 at 16:04:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Thanks a lot for this information.

    Mark    Posted 02-24-2018 at 10:12:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • A “How-To” video would be a great addition!

    36 coupe    Posted 02-26-2018 at 10:21:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: fuel bowl assembly
  • Search for LeJay manual. The manual shows how to do hot carbon soldering.I sold a few copies when I sold books.Handled a few tractor manuals but I found tractor people were awful tite wads.The Le Jay manual is out of print but new copies can be found for 8 bucks.I bought one for 1.25 in the fifties.Lots of welding and wind generator info.Some things are obsolete as in auto generators but you get 50 Plans, any one is worth 8 bucks.Using a tractor with out having the manuals is a fool stunt.

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