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Subject: Sputtering 9n

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Michael K.    Posted 05-26-2018 at 22:57:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Sputtering 9n
  • Recently bought a 9n
    Cleaned sediment bowl it had 1/8 of clay sludge in it.
    Tractor starts well but run smoothes when choke is half way out some times.
    Marvel carb came with small screw turned in all the way.
    Large screw was 3 turns out.
    It seem like it needs small screw all the way in but not sure where to set large screw ?..
    I know I could rebuild carb but looking for advice is this a carb issue ?
    Could it be old gas with moisture?
    Or could it be crud in tank?
    Or can I adjust carb to smooth out engine it sputters when excelerateing and when engine is put on a load.
    Thank you much.

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 05-27-2018 at 07:35:03 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • Bruce (VA) on June 06, 2010 at 09:13:06 [URL] [DELETE] :
    In Reply to: carb adjustment posted by AL CT   
    Posted 06-06-2010 at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

    Do it like this        [Reply] [No Email]  

  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • Michael    Posted 05-27-2018 at 10:30:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • Jack,
    Thank you for all the info this looks very good I will use it.
    Thank you for your time!!!!

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 05-28-2018 at 07:47:21 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • The archives are loaded with information, some very good, some not as good. Another thing to think about -- These tractors have been around long enough to have been farmerized many times! My 2N started giving problems similar to yours. I finally found someone had drilled an extra hole through the mounting plate of the carb. Once the old gasket started breaking down it allowed an air leak. Thanks to modern epoxy!

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 05-27-2018 at 07:14:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • Michael,

    Certainly old gasoline will affect their operation. As I recall it does require turning the large screw out. Do you have room to add fresh gasoline to dilute it?

    The second thing I would be suspicious of would be a vacuum leak. Take a bottle of propane or some spray carb cleaner. With the engine running spray around the manifold and the carburetor. Particularly around the throttle rod. If you find a area where the engine speeds up, you have found a leak.

    Once you have checked these out (and corrected) you may find it adjusts.

    Good Luck


    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 05-27-2018 at 04:43:51 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Sputtering 9n
  • HiYa Michael-
    Welcome aboard the NTC and the wonderful world of Ford Tractors. We have a ton of valuable information starting with the HOW-TO's forum. The red menu bra at the top of HOME page will display it. Your 'sputtering' issue could be due to one or more reasons. Here's a LINK to one document there on starting a tractor that has been setting for a long period. If the fuel sediment bulb had a 1/8" of sludge in the glass bowl, chances are the entire unit needs cleaning. There are two in-line screens on the unit, one on top of the part at the fuel inlet port, and the other a flat round removable brass fine mesh screen horizontal on top of the unit where the glass bowl secures to -see diagram. The vertical top screen is non-removable only soldered in place, originally, but newer units now use a glue on them. Use caution when cleaning it so as not to dislodge it from the base. Use a carb cleaner solution or lacquer thinner to clean the parts with and gently air blow dry. The bulb assembly screws into the fuel tank with an NPT thread on both parts. The assembly uses special fuel/brake line threads on the outlet line and valve stem port. They are 7/16-24 UNS, so use caution when installing -always start with fingers, never force them. As a newbie it is also recommended to get originals or copies of the essential owner manuals. You'll need at least these: The 9N/2N Operator's Manual; the 9N/2N Service Manual; the I&T F-04 Manual; and the '39-'53 MPC (Master Parts Catalogue). There are others too, and we have all of the MPCs in our MANUALS forum for specific model years as well. You can download and save any document on any forum free. It is also important to know if your tractor is 6-volt or 12-volt. The original FORD electrical systems were/are 6-volt/positive ground set ups. A lot have been 'converted' to 12-volts, but be aware that many 12-volt jobs are done poorly and incorrectly, thus creating non-starting/non-running issues. There are other documents too -WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR in How-To's, and Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips For N-Owners that you should also download and save. In the LINKS forum you'll find a listing for John Smiths web site. Go there and click on "TRACTOR ID/HISTORY" to learn a lot more about each specific model and what changes were made along the way. Meantime, it is probably a good idea to rebuild the carb, not just try and adjust the jets. With the idle mix screws set as you say, someone was having problems and ended up with the settings all jazzed up like that. Carbs must be set with engine hot and governed under load. Yu don't just set jet screws and walk away. Often it takes 2 or 3 attempts to get it right. As I said, it's probably a good idea to get the carb rebuilt and then muck with settings. Meanwhile, get the manuals and read religiously. Ditto with the documents mentioned too.



    Tim Daley(MI)

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