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Subject: 8NB Resurrection

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Scott Hicks    Posted 05-27-2018 at 12:25:41 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 8NB Resurrection
  • Hello everyone,

    Yesterday I made a deal with my landlord to purchase a Ford 8NB. The deal is based on getting it running...

    Yesterday I pulled, cleaned, and reinstalled the carburetor. Today I am pulling the hood, cleaning out the fuel tank and catch bowl. Then I have to rewire it as cows had eaten the wires! If all that goes well, I will pull the head and go through the sitting tractor resurrection process. I have the service manual on my phone and a jug of marvel mystery oil.... Come on baby... Daddy needs a working tractor!!!

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Kirk-NJ    Posted 05-29-2018 at 02:53:40 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 8NB Resurrection
  • I would not work on someone's tractor unless everything was in writing. To many things can happen. Been there done that and gone burned.
    That said if all you want to do is get it running than I don't know why you are pulling the head. Cleaning the tank is good but a temp tank is easier/cheaper. If the engine won't turn over a full revaluation possibly the valves are stuck, might be able to free them up thru the side cover. A couple of wires to bypass the system will also work to get it going and make sure it will operate the 3pt and drive it. Making sure it's it neutral, block down clutch and block tires because you are bypassing the neutral safety switch.
    Don't know what kind of deal you struck with you landlord but this is how I would proceed. I wouldn't spend a bunch of money until I knew everything worked as it sure. You can dig a pretty deep money pit on these old tractors and sometimes not recoup the money you have in them
    Good luck with your tractor

    Kirk

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 05-27-2018 at 15:42:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 8NB Resurrection
  • We wish you much success in this endeavor. Try this document first from our HOW-TO's forum -it is one of many very useful pieces of information stored there. MMO isn't really required, but it's your $$$ and charcoal lighter fluid (mineral spirits) will do the same thing as that is all MMO is anyway. Did you rebuild the carb since you already had it off anyway? Distributor points probably could be changed and set too. Oil changes for sure. I concur with Bruce - leave the head alone! Get the engine running right first, then you can do a compression check and see how the oil pressure is. You don't say but is it 6-volt or 12-volt, and either way, is it wired correctly for whatever it is? Also in HOW-TO's/ELECTRICAL is "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" -download a copy for your shop. It has every correct way to wire these old Ns whether if original 6-volt/positive ground or a modern 12-volt conversion. Many set ups are done incorrectly, mostly the 12-volt conversions. Got the I&T F-04 manual, 39-53 MPC, and 8N Operator's Manual? They are every bit as valuable a tool as any wrench. Also, they are required reading for any 8N-Owner.

    FORD 8N ESSENTIAL OWNERS MANUALS:

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 05-27-2018 at 13:50:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 8NB Resurrection
  • There is no need whatsoever for you to pull the head. Unless you just want to create more problems.

    Do not attempt to turn the engine over. You could break the rings if they are rusted to the cylinder walls. Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. If it still won’t turn by hand, remove the starter (see tip # 36) and use a BF screwdriver or jack handle on the ring gear teeth to try & turn it over. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter.

    Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).

    Good luck & check back!

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