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Subject: Cranking but no start

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John    Posted 06-13-2018 at 09:51:09 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Cranking but no start
  • Hey guys, as always thanks for your incredible knowledge and help. I have a 53 Jubilee that was last ran over thanksgiving of 2017 where she ran like a charm. I did NOT disconnect the battery over the winter months. When I first attempted to start the tractor it sounded like it was going to turn over on the first push, unfortunately that was not the case. The tractor did not start, but is cranking as normal. Might the battery be the problem, even though the engine is cranking? Side note, when I last used the tractor the fuel sediment bowl where you turn the knob was leaking fuel at a good drip. Is it possible that fuel has been drained from the system, if so, any suggestions on how to remedy? Thanks youin advance!
    John

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 06-14-2018 at 06:52:19 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • John, Not sure what the fuel shut off valve is on a Jube. Think it is like the one used on the hundred series.

    Regardless I have had good success rebuilding both that type and the one used on the 2N'S.

    The Hundred series has a small O ring which can be replaced. Been too long on the 2N! I don't remember what is in it.

    Sounds as if you need to get some fuel in it before you try starting it again.

    FYI: I NEVER disconnect the batteries in my tractors. Unlike modern cars, they do not have anything continuously drawing current. I doubt the battery is the problem.

    Good Luck.

    Tony C    Posted 06-14-2018 at 10:22:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • Good point on the battery. Rarely there will be a small draw across the ignition or light switches. Easily checked with a test light in series with the grounded battery cable.

    Typically batteries lose about ten percent per month under normal conditions. Extreme cold or heat will affect the rate of static drain. Additionally cleaning the top of the battery when you lay it up will help maintain the charge.

    If the machine ran when you laid it up, charge the battery, replace the shut off valve, (easy to do now as the tank is empty), add fuel and go farmin', showin, paradin' or whatever other chore you have for it.

    Whyever would you agonize over a leaking fuel shut off valve? I can see it if the goal is to restore a machine to "as sold", but......It's not like you have to decide whether or not to replace or merely grind a crankshaft. Replace the valve. There is one on Amazon for $15 with free shipping. Buy it by application. My buddy put one from Cross Creek Tractor on his Ferguson last year and it's doing fine. I just installed one on my 2n. No leaks.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 06-14-2018 at 09:51:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • NAA (Jubilee) uses the same as used on the other N's...didn't change til the 600/800 model. P/N 2N-9155-B as stated below.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 06-13-2018 at 18:06:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start

  • HiYa John-
    If engine/starter only click, click, clicks when you try to crank over, chances are the battery is dead. You can test for DC voltage static with a VOM, but if it is bad (won't sustain a charge) simply charging it won't help for long. Take the battery to your local starter shop or auto parts store and they will bench test it on their special test equipment. The battery must hold a full charge under load, meaning specific gravity of electrolyte is sufficient in order to qualify as good. 7 months setting idle is a long time and battery probably discharged a bit before that, especially if it was weak to start with. If you need a new battery, many of us suggest avoiding the cheaper bargain house ones as life span is about 2 years on average, and spend about $125 on a decent brand like INTERSTATE, DEKA, or EXIDE. A 6V AG type is GRP-1; a 12V type is GRP-25 or GRP-35. Also think about investing in a "BATTERY TENDER" brand of float trickle charger. Keep it connected when tractor is not running and you will not only extend the life of the battery further, but always have a full charge and ready to go when you need it. While you are getting the battery tested, you will need to fix that leaking Fuel Sediment Bulb. Most of the leaks on these occur when the Fuel Valve Stem seal inside it gets worn out -it is only a rubber sleeve, and some new units actually use vinyl. You don't need to replace the entire Sediment Bulb Assembly. The valve stem is the only working mechanical part. While at it, replace the fine mesh brass horizontal screen and cork gasket -about a $3 kit. The other possible leak point is the fuel line inlet port. This port and the valve stem port use fuel and brake line special threads -7/16-24, and often get boogered up with guys trying to tap with something else or cross thread the bulb ports trying to fasten the line or valve stem. The fuel line fittings are usually good steel but the bulb assembly is zinc or pewter so the softer metal always gives. If one or both are stripped, a whole new sediment bulb will be needed. When installing the valve stem, I always put a dab of thread sealant on the small 8-32 screw that secures the knurled knob onto the stem. WHY? I've lost a few before as they loosen up while in the field and fall off, lost forever. Also, with a new valve stem assembly kit you get a new knob and screw. Once it is assembled, it won't ever need to be removed until the next time. They don't sell just the sediment bulb knobs so if you lose one, you need to buy an entire assembly to get another. An ounce of prevention mans no hiccups later. test for leaks BEFORE firing up engine. Bottom line: Get battery fixed or replaced, and get fuel leak issue root cause determined and resolved.


    ORIGINAL FORD N TRACTOR FUEL SEDIMENT BULB ASSEMBLY, P/N 2N-9155-B:

    SEDIMENT BULB VALVE STEM ASSEMBLY KIT, P/N APN-9194:

    Tim Daley(MI)
    Retired Manufacturing Engineer -35+ Years

    JMOR    Posted 06-13-2018 at 10:09:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • " Is it possible that fuel has been drained from the system, if so, any suggestions on how to remedy?
    ' Step #1-remove gas cap.
    Step #2-look in tank and see if there is gasoline.
    Step #3- remedy if none in tank is to add gasoline to tank.

    steveVa    Posted 06-14-2018 at 21:02:36 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • #4. Re-Install gas cap in reverse order of removal.

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 06-13-2018 at 13:35:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • Geez, Jesse....I know you're an engineer by trade, but did you have to be that technical in your explanation? ;)

    duey    Posted 06-13-2018 at 11:41:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • Love it!!!

    Tony C    Posted 06-13-2018 at 14:51:10 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Cranking but no start
  • J***. Thank you for the well thought out engineering solution. Concise, easy to follow instructions logically ordered. Love it!

    Don't know if you design and route e.m.f., design the plant and generating equipment or the road to the plant but your engineering skill is evident nevertheless.

    Tony

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