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Subject: Emulsified Fluid

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mthomas    Posted 06-20-2018 at 15:11:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Emulsified Fluid
  • I've pulled the plugs on an 8n and let the emulsified hydraulic fluid drain. Should I just let it set for a day or so with the plugs out, or should I fill it with something, run it, and drain again before putting the new fluid in? If fill with something, what should that something be?

    I was going to drain it, pull the side cover, flush as best I could with non chlorinated brake cleaner, and refill it. However while watching the crud come out I started having doubts about not running with a flush fluid first.

    mthomas    Posted 06-23-2018 at 07:51:22 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • Thanks, I am incorporating the replies in the plan. Hose it out, run mineral oil for a while, swap fluid again before the weather cools off, and check it for water before running it after it has sat for a while.

    Jim A Ok.    Posted 06-23-2018 at 17:56:49 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • I have a Jubilee that my sil has worked on the lift. While we were at it I had him drill and tap the drain plug for a 1/4 inch plug. This should make it easier to check for water.

    TheOldHokie    Posted 06-20-2018 at 18:42:49 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • If the problem is water contamination drain and flush as best you can. After thorough draining running 5 gallons of a "cheap" oil through the system as a secondary flush is not a bad idea if you can afford the luxury. Refill with a service oil that has some ability to resist water. That would be almost ANYTHING that is NOT a GL1 product. Modern gear and tractor transmission oils are formulated with the express purpose of protecting against that problem. Pure mineral oils lack that protection.

    If your tractor is stored in an environment that lends itself to condensate formation you would be well advised to use an oil that is formulated to fight the problem as best it can. In the long run physical chemistry will prevail - all you can do is extend the drain and fill interval as best you can by using high performance lubricants.

    TOH

    Ozlander    Posted 06-23-2018 at 14:46:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • I agree.

    mthomas    Posted 06-20-2018 at 17:56:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • Here is the back story. I have little choice but to leave this outside and tarped. Two winters ago, it would not lift. I stuck a magnet heater on the diff, and it started working. There was no emulsification, and I figured I had picked up a bit of water that froze somewhere it should not have been.

    I ran it the following summer with no issues and no emulsification. Last winter I noticed it was starting to emulsify, but I had no operational issues.

    I used it to grade the driveway once this spring, and no issues other than the emulsifcation.

    The fluid has always appeared clear and golden. It is now a golden emulsification, but everything still works. I thought I would drain it, hose it out with the brake cleaner, refill it and try to come up with a better storage solution.

    My main concern was any water/emulsified oil left after draining it.

    I do not have the time to tear it apart. I was hoping that clean fluid and a better storage solution would head off future problems.

    NAPA in town has the mineral oil. I may flush it once or twice with that.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 06-21-2018 at 09:51:33 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • In addition to using the better type of fluid, when a tractor has been sitting a few weeks, go under there and crack the drain plugs loose about 1/2 turn. Any water from condensation will have collected at the low point of each sump. Most of that water will quickly run past the threads. When the water stops dripping, tighten the plugs. Do this before you run the tractor, and get the fluid/water thoroughly mixed. I use the synthetic fluid, so anything that helps extend the life of the fluid is saving time and money. Loosening the plugs more often also does away with the problem of them being completely frozen in place when it's time to actually drain the fluid.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 06-20-2018 at 17:40:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • Are you planning on repairing/revising the cylinder and piston? Did you do a leak down test prior to draining? Might want to think about pulling top cover and doing now since you're going to get half the job done by cleaning out the system. I use plain mineral spirits for all my cleaning projects. It won't harm any internal parts if any gets left over. It runs about $10 per gallon. If cylinder is worn, replace with a new one. If piston is the old three steel ring type, replace it with the NAA style. Install a new safety relief valve too either way. Just saying, if you just clean out sump, you may end up with a leaking cylinder later and have to drain and pull top cover anyway. Here's a LINK to our HOW-TO's for a document on 8N hydraulic repair. Replace oil with SAE 90 API GL-1 OIL like this:



    Tim Daley(MI)

    JMOR    Posted 06-20-2018 at 16:51:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • Our experience included scrapping with tools and gloved hands, as stuff on bottom was about consistency of day or two old cow manure. It wasn't going to wash out.


    R Geiger    Posted 06-20-2018 at 15:49:24 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Emulsified Fluid
  • The best way would be to drop the pump and use a solvent gun to clean it all out.

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