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David    Posted 08-05-2018 at 19:40:59 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re
  • David    Posted 08-05-2018 at 19:42:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • the dist test was good

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 08-06-2018 at 07:28:11 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • Maybe it's just me.....

    But I have no idea what you are talking about.

    Care to elaborate?

    David    Posted 08-06-2018 at 10:14:11 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • Apparently my copy didn't paste well
    I did the recommended steps for the dist to see if it was functioning correctly and did Tim's test on the coil but that fails so I am assuming that means a bad coil?

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 08-06-2018 at 10:56:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • " Apparently my copy didn't paste well "

    That's correct.

    Which means I still have no idea what you are talking about.

    " I did the recommended steps for the dist to see if it was functioning correctly and did Tim's test on the coil but that fails so I am assuming that means a bad coil? "

    So, re above, either elaborate on what that means....or do a 'copy and paste' to give us some background.

    Tony C    Posted 08-07-2018 at 11:48:35 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • It got me too, Bruce.

    FRom all the meandering discussions, would this be an accurate distillation? "I don't have spark at the plugs. I have current to the primary side of the coil. I overhauled the distributor, installed new electrical components, got the timing set, corrected a mistake I made assembling it (no harm no foul, we all have made mistakes). I still have no spark at the plugs. What is the solution?"

    Somewhere along the line I believe David said he tested the continuity of the points and they were making and breaking properly???????????

    If so, think, maybe, just maybe something in the secondary string, coil, cap or rotor maybe the problem?

    He's got current to the primary side and the points are functioning as they should. I believe the condenser has been changed twice, so I'll make a leap of faith and trust the condenser. As long as he got the point gap close and didn't change the timing externally the timing should be close enough for the engine to run. and....even if the timing were way out it would still get fire in the secondary circuit. Backfire through the carb too late or turn slowly from too much advance. .005" difference in plug gap wouldn't have an effect on the existence of spark at the plug terminals. But I understand what you mean about setting the gap correctly.

    Four spark plug wires failing simultaneously is virtually impossible, especially metal core wires. THe obsession with the distributor is the impediment to finding and correcting the problem which, IMHO is the coil, which are not known for their reliability, especially one sixty plus years old. I would try a known to be good coil or buy a new one. THey are inexpensive and it may be needed down the line at some point. Or find someone with a Snap On MT-335 coil tester to test it.

    Or....maybe I'm way off base with the above. Hard to diagnose a problem XXXXX miles from the problem with incomplete or dissociated information.

    Tony

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 08-07-2018 at 14:53:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • I agree that the many twists and turns of this thread are confusing; I expect at any time to hear a soliloquy on global warming or world peace.

    This isn't brain surgery.

    If he has battery voltage at the top of the coil, the problem is in the coil or distibutor. Hence my question.

    But, he said it passed the continuity test, so the problem is not primary voltage; it's secondary.

    Yes, that could be the coil, but it could just as easily be point gap, glazed points, etc, etc.

    I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible..... ;)

    David    Posted 08-06-2018 at 11:42:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • Tim Daley(MI) on August 03, 2018 at 21:39:25 [URL] [DELETE] :

    In Reply to: Re: new dsitributor posted by David   

    Posted 08-03-2018 at 18:09:08        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • Bruce (VA)    Posted 08-06-2018 at 12:34:53 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • OK, now I understand.

    So the distributor passed the continuity check, correct?

    It's unlikely that you have a defective coil. It's more likely that you didn't do the test correctly.


    Assuming the distributor passed the continuity tests, that means your coil has continuity on the primary circuit through the distributor.

    So put the distributor and coil back on the tractor.


    Turn the key on.


    Check for voltage at the top of the coil.


    You should see either battery voltage or about half of battery voltage. Bump the starter and keep checking until you see battery voltage and then 1/2 that.


    If you do, then the tractor should start. If it does not, check for spark at the plugs.

    David    Posted 08-06-2018 at 13:25:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • the last time I checked with these same components that I set the same way as I had them for these tests the voltage at the top of coil was 5.27 and when cranking the starter it dropped to 5.7 at the lowest
    these were set with the proper timing and the proper gap checked numerous times
    I had no spark at the plugs with new plugs gapped at .03 and new plug wires

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 08-06-2018 at 14:15:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Re
  • Please answer the questions I asked.

    With the points open, what voltage did you observe?

    Why did you set the plugs at .03? The plug gap is .025.

    Which then leads to the question, what did you set the points at?

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