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Subject: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem

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Chuck    Posted 09-17-2018 at 11:17:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • I have a 1953 Jubilee that is burning points. I put a fresh set of points in and get about 4 hours of use and the points burn out and need to be replaced. We checked the voltage at the battery, before and after the coil and at the distributor while the tractor is running and the voltage tends to run extremely high where it is unreadable. Any ideas on what to look for???? The only thing we haven't done is replace the voltage regulator which is next on the agenda in hopes that that is the problem. When I look at the install directions, it states that I need to 'polarize' the generator. Why or what is the reason for doing this? Thanks for any advice and/or help as this is frustrating the heck out of me. Thanks

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:16:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • You're not burning up points do to a voltage issue.

    You are buying cheap points and the gap closes in 4 hours, setting them incorrectly, have a bad condenser or you have slop in the distributor shaft.


    The voltage will be unreadable if you are using a digital meter. Are you? (see tip # 47)

    Solve one problem at a time. Forget about the charging circuit....the v/r and the generator. Just solve the points problem.

    What brand points are you buying?

    What gap are you setting them at?

    What is the gap when they are "burned up"?

    Have you replaced the condenser?

    Any slop in the shaft?

    Chuck    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:39:43 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Thanks Bruce. Bought the first set of points and condenser from the local Ford Tractor dealer. Bought the next two sets from the local mechanic. Replaced both points and condenser and gapped points at .24. Was using the digital meter to check voltage. Don't know what the gap is when burned up. When I replace the points and condenser, the tractor runs fine for about 3-4 hours and then starts sputtering and gradually quit running. Replace the points/condenser and runs good again. I don't believe the shaft is worn as this is a recent problem. BTW, the local Ford Tractor dealer couldn't fix the problem as the new generation of mechanics is trained to use a computer to work on the newer equipment..............

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:48:59 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Go to NAPA, get a set of Echlin points. And a tube of cam lube.

    Do not replace the condenser.

    Set the points at .025. (.024 didn't hurt anything)

    Check the shaft for slop. Any movement at all is a no-go.


    Lightly lube the cam w/ cam lube.


    Dress the points w/ card stock or brown paper.

    After one hour of run-time, check the point gap.

    Chuck    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:56:40 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Thanks Bruce. I will proceed on those recommendations and let you know how it turns out. Take care.

    Bruce (VA)    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:59:53 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Quality points correctly installed and gapped at .025 on a lubed shaft w/ no slop should easily last 5 years . Mine do!

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 09-17-2018 at 11:31:07 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • HiYa Chuck-
    Burning up points sounds like a wiring issue. If you are using a digital VOM to try and measure voltage while tractor is running, forget it. The signal will play havoc and results are readings all over the place, and unstable. You mention a voltage regulator. First, we need to know whether you have the original 6V/POS GND system or a 12V/NEG GND switch-over job. With 6V you would have a generator and a voltage regulator. If you have a 12V system, the generator and VR are removed from the circuit altogether. If you go to our HOW-TO's forum under ELECTRICAL, and download a copy of WIRING PICTOGRAMS BY JMOR, scroll all the way to very bottom to find the wiring diagram for the Jubilee. Study it and verify if what you have matches it exactly. You only 'polarize' the VR/generator if you have them but that isn't your problem so more info is required first. The LINK is below to how-to's

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Chuck    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:05:20 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Thanks Tim. Everything is still the original 6 volt system although if I can't get this figured out, will reluctantly change over to the 12 volt system.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 09-17-2018 at 14:35:59 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • A 6V battery alone does not constitute a 6V/POS GND system. The ENTIRE WIRING circuit must be correct and quality parts used. As Bruce said, go to NAPA -most are Made In the USA, and by the way, there's no such thing as Ford Tractor anymore. You may have gone to a CNH dealer who sells aftermarket Ford parts, but stop. Too expensive for one. Verify wiring is all correct. Be sure battery is good, will sustain a charge under load. Disconnect lights from the circuit. Eliminate one possible cause -can reconnect later. Test wiring via continuity, not an idiot test light, using the pictogram as your guide. Forget wire colors -no two wiring harness manufacturers are alike and very few adhere to the original colors anyway. Idiot/Test Lights require power. You DO NOT want any power thru the circuit when you check continuity. Keep battery ground disconnected. You can use a digital multimeter only if engine isn't running. When running, static electricity will cause kattiwhompus readings. Use an analog meter when engine is running. You last statement is a typical reaction, a myth, created from those who don't really know how to troubleshoot the electrical system. If the tractor isn't running now on 6 volts, what makes you think it will on 12 volts? Here's fact: 99.98% of all non-starting/non-running issues are due to incorrect/bad wiring jobs, regardless if 6V/POS GND or 12V/NEG GND. A root cause problem solving method is needed to solve any problem. Go slow, step by step starting with good ECHLIN or BLUE STREAK POINTS, timed correctly, and verifying the wiring circuit is correct, including the wiring to the VR and genny. Then you can connect the battery and proceed.

    Chuck    Posted 09-17-2018 at 15:51:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Thanks for all the good info form everyone. I am picking up the Echlin points on the way home and have some work to do this evening. Take care and God Bless.

    Farmer Dan    Posted 09-17-2018 at 14:03:52 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Converting to 12 volts will not fix a problem with the points.

    Rusty 2N    Posted 09-17-2018 at 12:14:21 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1953 Jubilee Electrical Problem
  • Find the peoblem now of it will show it's ugly head again..

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