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Subject: Buford

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Jim    Posted 12-05-2018 at 07:11:41 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Buford
  • I'm getting ready to paint a Golden Jubilee but it will remain a work tractor. What paint should I get that doesn't break the budget? Where is the best place to buy (CNH)? TSC or where? Which colors should I get to maintain some originality. Thank you.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-05-2018 at 11:24:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • I have used the TISCO Paint for years. It is an acrylic enamel made by Van Sickle Paint Co. and is for the budget minded. I did my 8N in 2003 and haven't touched it since but next time I will opt for a better brand of paint. My advice is to go with the TIDCO TP240 for the Ford Medium Grey -it comes real close to the original. For the Ford Red, I don't care for any of the TISCO products listed for FORD -they are all too orangey for me. I use the TISCO IH RED TP110 as it matches the original Ford Vermillion(8N Red) almost exactly. The CNH Ford Medium Grey is okay too but their red is too orangey as well. Here's a LINK to JUST8Ns for paint. If you call Derek he will probably be able to get you some IH RED TP110. I shop a few local places who carry TISCO paint so it's cost effective plus usually in stock. TISCO also makes a hardener too.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Jim    Posted 12-05-2018 at 18:00:38 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • What are the adverse effects of not using a hardener, if any?

    Tony C    Posted 12-06-2018 at 11:12:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • Depends on what you want from a paint job.

    No real downside to non hardened paints. THey were used in all industries for decades.

    Catalyzed paints are harder, a little glossier and more fade resistant.

    I shot an equipment trailer with RUstoleum acrylic enamel that I dumped who knows how much hardener into. It was a rough equipment trailer so no big deal if the paint didn't turn out show quality, how ever it came out well, standing up to chains and binders dragged across the rails, dropped winch bars etc...

    Downside of using of hardener are the poly-isocyanates which are a major component. THey are DEADLY. HVLP guns are better than cup siphon types as there is less over spray from the HVLP type. I'm not a nanny state wonk about safety and think that coffee cups should be placarded "CAUTION HOT" but I am very careful around isocyanates. New 3M respirator, long sleeves, gloves, hoodie and scarf as the stuff can be be absorbed through the skin. Doing the job outside is best but has downsides. Ever have to dig a mosquito hawk out of a freshly painted fender or hood?

    Catalyzed paints have a fairly short pot life. Only mix what you need. Solvent to paint ratio is more critical than non catalyzed paints. Same for temperature and humidity. Get either of them out of spec and the paint blushes. It is also susceptible to fisheye if there is any silicone in the air or on the surface. FIsheye is easier to fix with non hardened paints.

    Prep is the most important part of any paint job. Once you think you have every part levelled and smooth, guide coat it, sand and go over it again..... and again. I don't use tack cloths or solvents for final wipe down. Dawn and water, then wiped down with clean dry cloths and shot as soon as the machine or parts are dry and warmed to ambient temperature. Wet down the floor under the machine if indoors. Same for a large area around it if shooting it outside.

    It's harder to nib hardened paints and block out runs. However they really sparkle if color sanded and buffed. .

    In short hardened paints are a little more difficult to use but tend to stay brighter longer and are a little more durable than non hardened paints, assuming the prep is good. .

    I used plain old Rustoleum smoke gray tinted with black with a few drops of green to match a paint sample from under the air cleaner intake hose. It came out well. I did use an etching primer, paint mixed to spec by volume on a warm dry day. My 2N Came out well. In fact I drove it to a neighbors and back in road gear wide open and the paint stayed on. Bounced it across a field full of gopher mounds with the same result. It's been rained on pretty hard a few weeks ago and the paint is still on. Was good enough for me. New owner hasn't complained about the finish either. It wasn't a '32 16 cyl Cadillac Dual cowl phaeton show car.

    I realize others may do it differently and have varying opinions, but the above methods have worked well for me over the years.

    Jim    Posted 12-06-2018 at 11:47:39 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • Thanks again Tony. I have been diagnosed with chronic leukemia and wanted to stay away from hardeners. Another family member may do the actual painting and at least part of the prep but I see no reason to expose anyone to an unnecessary health hazard. By the way I will be using a LVLP gun as don't trust my compressor to handle the air needed for HVLP work.

    Tony C    Posted 12-06-2018 at 13:48:56 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • Hi Jim,

    Tough break, your condition. Single stage non catalyzed paint will do a fine job. Remember, that is how they were painted at the factory. Siphon gun will also do the job. THey have for decades.

    Tony

    Jim    Posted 12-06-2018 at 15:49:43 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • I'm used to it. First diagnosed in 2005. Had some chemo that didn't take but feel good and now just being monitored. Thanks for all your help and advice. I hope you have a Merry Christmas and a very wonderful New Year.

    Jim

    steve19438    Posted 12-05-2018 at 16:55:20 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Buford
  • here's a dumb question. on average how much red and gray does it take to paint a 8N ?

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