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Subject: Original Cylinder Versus After-market

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Kimberly    Posted 03-27-2019 at 12:18:24 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Original Cylinder Versus After-market
  • The history of the tractor is starting to come together. The lift was worked on some 20 years ago. At that time a new control rod, new cylinder, and new piston was installed in the lift. The pump was also rebuilt using a kit from Steiner Tractors. The draft control on the tractor has never worked for me. I did all the ploughing with the position control keeping one hand on the control lever in case the plough got bogged down. I am hoping that I can get the draft control to work. I am looking at the parts that work for that; I am going to remove the draft control yoke; I got a used one, and examine the plate as I see they can become worn where the control spring makes contact. I know I need to be careful; use heat etc, to remove the yoke. If I can't remove it without fear of breaking something I may leave well enough alone. Any advice on removing the yoke will be appreciated.

    The other thing I read in Tim's article on repair is that the cylinder needs to have the dimple for the draft control assembly to clear. On the after-mnarket cylinder, the dimple is very slight. I am wondering if it is enough or if I need to take the grinder to the cylinder and match the dimple on the original. I have not decided to reuse it or not at this time. I did return the control rod so I will have that money to apply to other parts. Here is a photo of the cylinders.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 03-29-2019 at 03:56:08 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Original Cylinder Versus After-market
  • Use whichever cylinder is new. You can't use heat to loosen the top cover. You just cannot generate that much heat over that amount of mass/area to do anything efficient. It requires a lot of elbow grease ( K-Mart has a sale ; > ] ) and a long (4' or longer) pry bar to lift cover. Best to start at the area by the yoke spring and do not gouge the cast parts. Also, avoid smacking the cast parts directly with a steel hammer. Use a rubber dead blow or a piece of 2 x 4 wood with hammer.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    deanostoybox    Posted 03-29-2019 at 01:27:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Original Cylinder Versus After-market
  • Hi Kimberly

    I cannot tell from the picture, but the one on the right looks like the one on the old cylinder I took off mine when I replaced it with a new one. I was able to find it in a scrap pile late this afternoon. It is a cast dimple and could not have been made with a grinder. It measures 1" across, 1/2" long, and is not very deep. I am guessing 0.035" - 0.040", anyway less than 1/16". Nothing ever hit it in operation.

    The left cylinder in your picture looks more like the one I bought new which did not have any dimple after grinding.

    Hope this is of some use to you:-)

    Kimberly    Posted 03-28-2019 at 16:29:22 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Should I take the grinder to it?
  • Should I take the grinder to the cylinder?

    Kimberly    Posted 03-27-2019 at 14:04:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Draft Control Yoke Removal
  • I found the following but not sure I follow exactly what I should do.

    The best solution is to remove the top cover after disconnecting the top link rocker,and the control valve at the bottom of the lower fork assembly. Once the top cover is removed you will be able to remove the clevis pin that attaches the plunger to the upper fork, remove the three bolts securing the lift spring seat support, support plate, plunger, and control spring assembly. With the control spring assembly removed you can begin applying penetrating oil and hopefully be able to unscrew the turnbuckle from the plunger. Be patient, you should be prepared to apply penetrating oil for several days.

    Kimberly    Posted 03-27-2019 at 22:31:14 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Draft Control Yoke Removal
  • No luck. I heated and whacked, heated and whacked, heated and whacked. Tried using impact to vibrate but no luck. Can't really put the heat where it is needed because of the spring. Rachel did a video on this but she did not show getting the yoke loose. I probably can't apply enough heat.

    PatrickB    Posted 03-28-2019 at 13:33:02 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Draft Control Yoke Removal
  • I assume your using an oxy/act outfit with a rosebud? The yoke needs to be red hot before any attempt of removal.

    Kimberly    Posted 03-28-2019 at 14:37:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Yoke is off
  • I managed to get it hot enough with a propane torch; just have to apply the torch for a long period of time. I don't have a full shop to work with; would be nice. I did end up burning my finger and thumb; got too close to the end of the spring near the yoke. I found that putting a block under the spring to provide an opposite force helped and I went to move the block and got hit. Hurts and there is a blister forming. The thing is that I had leather gloves but had took them off.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 03-28-2019 at 22:37:54 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Yoke is off
  • The yoke is a pretty big part to try and do any good with just a propane torch. Glad you were able to get it loose. Any type of penetrating oil takes much more than just a few minutes to work. When I'm planning to work on something rusty, I start early in the week. Walk by it on Monday with a can of PB Blaster, shoot anything that looks like it might be frozen and go to the office. Spray them again on Tuesday and maybe Thursday. By the time I get around to it on Saturday or Sunday, shoot them again and everything usually comes apart without too much trouble.

    There are exceptions, such as those confounded radiator carriage bolts. I just expect those to be stuck and spinning in the thin radiator sheet metal. In cases like that a nut splitter or reciprocating saw will probably be the next tool I grab. Sometimes good used parts are so cheap it makes no sense to fight the rotten stuff.

    After spraying penetrating oil I'm a bit shy about using a torch of any kind. Burning and sniffing those fumes can be really bad.

    Kimberly    Posted 03-28-2019 at 22:59:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Yoke is off
  • Yes, I realise that propane is not as hot as acetylene; propane is 3,623F/1,995C. I did make sure to apply the inner flame to the yoke. I worked on this over three days figuring that heat and cooling cycles might help to free it. And I did use a penetrating oil. I would stand the lift cover up; which I had to carefully do as it is heavy even with the cylinder off, and put oil down the yoke hole. Then I would lift the opposite and try to get penetrating oil on the other side of the yoke. I also did the light tapping to vibrate hoping it would help with the penetrating oil. You are correct on the fumes; I had to be very careful so that I did not breath in any fumes when returning to applying the heat.

    I said grunt in the other post but that was more of a metaphor type thing. Yes, I did apply some torque but I was careful. I will inspect tomorrow more closely. I ended up burning my finger and thumb because i took my leather gloves off and then got too close to the end of the spring that had absorb a lot of heat as well.

    I noticed the rod is rather pitted as well but I don't think that is a concern.

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