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Subject: Front axle wear problem that should be looked into by 600

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Charles    Posted 04-10-2019 at 17:16:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Front axle wear problem that should be looked into by 600
  • The front wheels forward and backward force is suppose to be controlled by the side support rods. Where these are attached to the axle, the bolts and axle holes become wallowed out. That stress is then transferred to the center pivot pin. My threaded area in the support (which are soft steel threaded) then become hammered out (Mine 1/8"
    You can check this rocking action , by jacking up the front and putting a rod thru the vertical holes and puling forward and back.
    Solution check above. Remove pins of support rod to axle Shim and replace bolts.

    Results will help center pivot pin and mount failure.
    I had to pound my pivot pin in 1/4" and am now thinking of tack welding it below fan area

    Rustyal    Posted 04-11-2019 at 06:29:10 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Front axle wear problem that should be looked into by 600
  • Normally the front axle parts are all stuck in place. And the only thing that needs repair is the center pin bushing and pin. You should not have to weld anything.

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 04-10-2019 at 20:45:11 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Front axle wear problem that should be looked into by 600
  • I'm wondering if Ford did things differently for the 600 and decided it didn't work. The hardware connecting radius rods to front axle on all my N-Tractors and the Ford 3000 was so tight and rusted in-place there was no play at all and they were all darn difficult to take apart. On two of them the axle was tilted because the radius rods were bent. Straightening the radius rods fixed that and made them much easier to steer with the spindles running straight up and down again.

    Charles    Posted 04-12-2019 at 08:34:02 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Front axle wear problem that should be looked into by 600
  • I can get from. Royse Larson, The front slide out axle from one of his 8N's or a Jubliee. He and I feel they may be Interchanable, especially jub as it may be same length of wishbone to transmission housing mount. The hole front axle of Jub might be the same as 600 (threaded swivel pin). 4 bolts hold front end to motor mount (e-bay $380)
    Any one pipe in on model changes, in this area.
    Today I will try and get my pins out and assess damage. Me think a starnard bolt and coffee can shims will restore to original. My spindle and hubs are ok.

    Charles    Posted 04-12-2019 at 16:39:16 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Findings and plan
  • Got vertical pins out. PB Blaster. Jack under nut. pound down on wishbone.
    Finding pin not worn. Axle wallow out (front to back .120)
    Pull fan shroud and pivot pin.
    Unbolt wheel movable axle portion
    Lift out axle.
    Bought copper bushing 5/8" X 3/4" Ace hardware in town. $ 15 for 4
    Position on drill press. Insert pin. Check for straightness using my magnetic dial gauge indicator.
    Drill 25/32 Ream for press fit to .750.
    Hydraulic press (neighbor) in bushings.
    Press out pivot pin bushing and press in new.
    Will use old pivot pin to put through bolster and axle. push in beyond wear area
    Swedge pin down in threads.
    Arc weld pin to bolster.
    Good for life of tractor or me.
    You tractor might have same problem, especially after 8N thru 100 and 1000 series.
    Jack it up and put rebar in axle and rock back and forth.
    Old time farmer, E.B. Bliss machinest, etc

    Charles    Posted 04-14-2019 at 18:52:17 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Findings and plan correction
  • good. Nobody caught my misstake. 3/4" bushing would have fell out with 25/32 drill.
    Probably should go 1/64" below 3/4" and ream to fit. That means 23/64'
    Mistake was made as I used that drill to fix my worn hydraulic lift arm pins.I replaced the 5/8' pins with "millameter" MM bolts as I could get bolt with about .015" clearance with I think is 21mm. and nuts with plastic so they don't loosen.
    Had to anneal knuckles as they are harden. Heat with actylene, cool slowly in outdoor wood furnace.
    Decide to have a shop do the hole wideing and ream so things remain true. They also have hydraulic press fop putting in the bushings and center pin bushing.
    Plan on using worn center pivot pin as the pin has an extra length that was only half machined out so a bolted keeper kept it from untheading . Hammer pin in after 1/4 turn, about 3.8"(worn area then in worn threader area of bolster). Tack weld front and back.
    GOOD FOR MY LIFETIME

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