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Subject: 1940 9N Electrical system

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Robert Angney    Posted 01-12-2020 at 20:25:38 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 1940 9N Electrical system
  • The wires to the headlights on our 9N were cut when we got it. Bought a new wiring harness from Amazon, but having trouble lining up all the connections properly. Also found that the positive pole on the battery is connected to the starter and the negative pole goes to ground. I'm new to all this. Looking for help getting everything wired correctly and properly wiring the lights back in.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-13-2020 at 09:07:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • What Harold said -lighting kits were only dealer optional accessories on the N-Series tractors. However, the OEM Ford 9N/2N Essential Manuals have wiring diagrams to use as a guide. You don't tell us, so I'll ask. Do you have the OEM 6V/POS GRN setup or has it been switched to 12V? If 12V, verify your lamps are 12V too or else you will smoke them at first power up. If 6V you should have the 1-Wire/3-Brush generator (after s/n 12500) using the roundcan cutout, front mount distributor (goes without saying) and the ballast resistor. The starter motor also is only a 1-Wire unit and des NOR use a solenoid. You don't need Amazon to buy parts from. Dennis Carpenter makes OEM exact-as-original parts and also sold at JUST8N's.com including all the wiring harnesses and lighting wiring kits.



    Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

    *9N653I* & *8NI55I3*

    HCooke    Posted 01-12-2020 at 22:10:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Your tractor did not come from the factory with lights. They were dealer add ons. No wiring harness that you buy is going to include wiring for the lights. Not to worry tho, just go to the how-to's at the top of this forum and then under electrical you will find JMOR's wiring diagrams.

    Robert Angney    Posted 01-13-2020 at 08:22:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Thank you! The pictogram looks to be pretty straight forward. The existing wires seem to be in decent condition, we may just verify that we're wired correctly and try it with the existing wires. I already know that our tractor is wired with the negative battery terminal grounded. Can we simply correct this per the pictogram and try it? I'm worried about missing a step and frying something.

    TheOldHokie    Posted 01-13-2020 at 10:18:24 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • It isn't "wrong" as is. You can reverse polarity if you wish but you will have to re-polarize the generator to match.


    TheOldHokie    Posted 01-13-2020 at 10:24:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Did not give that last post enough thought. I "assumed" you still had the 6v generator. If it has been switched to 12v with alternator and you reverse the polarity of the battery you will fry the alternator. Look before leaping.


    Robert Angney    Posted 01-13-2020 at 10:35:40 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • I recently took the generator to the local alternator shop to have it rebuilt. we simply placed it back on the tractor and wired it up the way it was and ran it. When we were running it I noticed that it's hot to the touch. The AMP meter is not moving at all so I don't know if anything is working correctly. It is a 6 volt system. How do I know the polarity of the generator? How do I make it match the battery?

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-14-2020 at 06:15:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Something isn't wired correctly still and it isn’t due to polarization. Components should NOT be getting red hot. We are assuming you have a 6V generator and not an alternator and a 6V battery. I posted scans of the OEM 9N/2N wiring diagrams so right click and save to your desktop then print out from there for reference. Questions need to be answered: Do you have the 1-Wire/3-Brush generator (A-Circuit) and roundcan cutout? Is there a 3rd Brush adjustment screw on the back plate of the generator? Do you have an OEM-style ignition switch and a fused 2-wire light switch? Can you post pictures? Again, verify all the wiring is correct before applying battery power. You polarize the generator with the cutout. POWER OFF; take your pliers and touch the BAT terminal to the ARM terminal for a second. Don’t assume the guy who rebuilt your genny did it correctly. Motor test via FO-4 Manual. Generators are made with an ‘A’ Circuit or a ‘B’ Circuit design -see LINK to article. It matters how it gets polarized. It can be done internally on the generator but easiest way is with the cutout on a 9N/2N or the VR on an 8N. The wrong method will result in a fried VR. The Clymer I&T FO-4 Manual shows how to test the cutout –see previous post, paragraph 66. Click on the LINK for an article from our HOW-TO’s forum on 9N generators. Disconnect the lights for now to take them out of the equation. Once electrical system is verified correct, then you can start adding in lights.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Robert Angney    Posted 01-14-2020 at 07:31:36 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Tim, Thank you for all the information. Here are our findings so far:
    1. We do have a 6v generator and 6v battery. The generator does not have the tensioning rod that you described yesterday, but it does have two screw holes on the top. I tried to get some pics of the numbers that are stamped you the generator.
    It is a 1-wire generator (how do I verify that it's 3 brush?) there is a +/- adjustment screw on it.
    2. We do have a roundcan cutout. It is not labeled Batt and Gen like the pics you sent, it just has a "B" on the bottom (does it matter which end is connected to the battery?). Sounds like we need to take the cover off to adjust it?
    3. I believe the ignition switch is OEM style. The light switch is a fused 2 wire switch (not hooked up).
    4. We reviewed the wiring pictogram last night. Wiring is clearly wrong and some wire are just cut off and dangling.
    I likely wont have time to do much this evening. Let keep in touch. I appreciate all your help.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-14-2020 at 10:32:30 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • OK -your generator is the 2N-10000 unit -same as the 9N-1000-C only the 2N has tensioning device built onto the unit hence the two bolt holes. The 2N has a bracket bolted on, the 9N-C has a steel band attached -look close at pix. Belt tension must be maintained and may explain why you don't see any AMMETER reading. Do you have the OEM 30/30 Induction "loop" ammeter or does it have two screw terminals? There are no numbers on the OEM barrel. There will be a STAR symbol and a date code stamp. 3rd brush has to be inspected internally -some guys don't use them but for now can turn all the way to 'LOW' -not your problem though. A "B" stamp on the Cutout designates it is the Battery terminal. Yes, the cover would need to be taken off to test but hold on for now. Get the WIRING correct first. Do you have the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit? BTW the gen/cutout is polarized with NO POWER. Do this: Take battery, cutout, and generator to your trusty starter shop guy. He can bench test the battery and if good recharge it. If bad, you will need a new good brand one -avoid the cheaper ones, they tend to have poor life. The battery is the heart of your tractor. Next he can inspect the inside and tell you if it has the 3rd Brush and if it an "A" Circuit. Then he can test the cutout for you. Most shops will do the work free, at least test the battery for free. If cutout is bad replace with new but not until it tests bad. Meanwhile back at the ranch, go thru the entire wiring system and wire/connect it up correctly, with no shortcuts, and leave the lighting wiring disconnected for now. They don't make teh OEM Tensioning Bracket anymore but you can find them in boneyards or ebay often on a used genny. I have a newly rebuilt 2N unit complete and ready to go if you want to negotiate price and core exchange -send me an email if so. I can also test the gen and cutout if your shop can't. You don't apply power until you are certain all the wiring is correct. Once it gets running as it should be, you can work on your lights.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Rob Angney    Posted 03-22-2020 at 10:08:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Ok, we finally got everything wired correctly on our 9N. Working on the lights now. When we turn the switch on, the back "work light" turns on. The headlights come on if we run a ground wire from the bulb holder to the frame of the tractor. Can you give specific instructions on where to properly attach ground wires from the light to the tractor frame?

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-13-2020 at 11:33:30 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 1940 9N Electrical system
  • Use the scans of the 9N/2N wiring I posted earlier. If you right click on the scan you can save it to your desktop as a jpg picture and print it out for reference. Your generator needs a belt tensioner. You will not charge the generator without one. Verify your wiring is all correct for 6V/POS GRN, no shortcuts. You polarize the generator using the cutout before applying power. Pictured here is the 9N-10505-B ROUND-CAN CUTOUT and the OEM 2N-10000 generator with belt tensioner attached and the 9N-10000-C Generator with the belt tensioner kit attached. The 9N-10000 small A and B generators did not use a belt tensioner nor will work on the 9N-C kit. The 2N generator released the tensioner as a fixed part to the unit. The 9N-C at the same time offered a kit to apply the tensioner via a steel band –see pictures. Starting with s/n 9N-12500 all generators were the same up until the 8N model. They were all 1-Wire/3-Brush Units rated at 11 amps and used the roundcan cutout. HOW TO TEST BELT TENSION: Tractor OFF, grab the generator pulley with both hands and try to turn it. If it turns and the belt does not, the tension is too loose.

    FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT –USED AFTER S/N 12,500 TO S/N 258504:






    Tim Daley(MI)

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