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Subject: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit

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JR in AR    Posted 03-12-2020 at 23:53:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • So working on the Jubilee and getting ready to add a drawbar kit. When I remove the original axel clevice and add the new one, how much oil should I expect to loose from the back? I wish I could put other rear wheels on ramps like you can for the part that goes around the PTO. What has been other people’s experience with adding these to a Jubilee?

    JR in AR    Posted 03-14-2020 at 13:45:31 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • Ok,
    This is awesome to know. I always wished that I could put this typography kit on my 2N, but wasn’t willing to risk it. I have seen what trying to do that can do. As soon as it quits raining, I will see what the old bracket was attached with on the Jubilee.

    JR in AR    Posted 03-15-2020 at 23:54:25 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • The old set up does have regular bolts, not studs. I hope to work on that later this week.

    Ultradog MN    Posted 03-13-2020 at 05:54:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • When you go to put your kit on pay very close attention to your bolt lengths. Look in a master parts catalogue or have someone post the bolt lengths. Include the thickness of any washers in your calculation. As said by the others, those mounting holes are blind. But it is pretty easy to use too long of a bolt and when you tighten them they will burst their way into the oil area. Then you will have weeping and seeping forever. You don't want the bolts too short either = less holding power on a heavily used, often abused area. Spend the time and get the lengths exactly right.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 03-13-2020 at 09:50:18 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • I always forget to add that part. Like carpenters and seamstresses, always measure twice and cut once. If you have the OEM studs, length shouldn't be a problem. There were three versions made just for the 8N and NAA alone and all three used different fastener lengths. With todays' aftermarket assemblies, and I'm sure there's more than one supplier, it's a crap shoot on clevis design evaluate depth of blind hole, then add an inch (an inch is sufficient)to the bottom of clevis when inserted to determine bolt length needed. Don't forget to include the lockwashers.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 03-13-2020 at 05:26:32 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • No worries about any oil leaking out - it can't holes are all blind. The FORD TRACTOR OEM SWINGING DRAWBAR was first used on the 8N, but only the 8N-802 CLEVIS BRACKET was included with the new tractor; the Dearborn Swinging Drawbar was an optional accessory. There were four studs used on the first early 802-A brackets to the undercarriage diffy case and they are blind holes so there is no concern for losing any oil. The studs were 5/8-11 x 5/8-18 x 2.46 and used a 5/8-18 Hex Nut and lockwasher. In late 1950 the clevis was altered, 8N-802-B, and used 5/8-11 x 1-3/4” Hex Bolts. In 1951 the clevis was changed to a welded assembly and the hex bolts changed again to 5/8-11 x 1-3/8”. The revamped and improved swinging drawbar, p/n NCA-809, was first released with the 600 & 800 Models but could also be used on the NAA and 8N. The revised clevis used 7/16-14 bolts. The NAA/Jubilee would use the 5/8-11 x 1-3/4" Hex Bolts.

    FORD TRACTOR DRAWBAR CLEVIS 8N-802:



    FORD TRACTOR REVAMPED DRAWBAR CLEVIS NCA-809:


    NOTE: This is the swinging drawbar sold today as an aftermarket accessory.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    beargap    Posted 03-13-2020 at 04:10:42 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Jubilee and Draw Bar Kit
  • You should lose no oil at all. The trheaded holes do not reach in that far. I did the same swap a number of years ago and the aftermarket swinging hitch is a great improvement.

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