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Subject: 2N No Power

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Jason    Posted 04-03-2020 at 09:24:12 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 2N No Power
  • 2N - Magneto
    New head cylinder/new governor/new carburetor/new plugs/new wires/new magneto good battery

    This tractor was given to me in exchange for labor on another job. Previous owner had trouble getting it started and keeping it running. I put the new carb on it, cleaned out the oil bath air cleaner and put a new sediment bowl and fuel delivery tube to car on it. I can get the tractor to fire up fairly easily now, and even idle decently. The engine will rev up plenty high, but when a load is applied it wants to die. The load being anything above 1st gear pulling nothing but it's own weight. I removed the linkage from the governor and ran up down the RPM's and observed some slight movement in the governor as the engine went up and down in rpm.

    Not sure where to go. I think the carb is pretty darn close in adjustment, not sure at all about the governor and I didn't put on the new magneto, so not sure if it's in adjustment but haven't played with it because the tractor starts up and runs. I have the FO4 manual, but hoping you all can point me in direction.

    I'd sure appreciate any help.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 04-04-2020 at 04:55:18 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • Jason-
    Welcome aboard the NTC! Are you/were you set up to run on the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or are you switched to a 12V job? Most non-running issues are due to incorrect wiring. You did a lot of stuff all at once so now the task of problem solving became multiple issues. Still, go thru each system one by one to troubleshoot. It is always best to know for sure and not guess. The Ford main components were designed to be rebuilt over and over and considering the condition that all the new aftermarket Cheena parts are made nowadays (NO Quality Control) it is best to stick with OEM parts. Did you check your 'new' carb for initial settings? Nothing can be assumed to be all 'set' out of the box, new batteries included. Now that you know you have a front mount distributor and not a magneto, you can rebuild the OEM module on your bench or kitchen table. New points can be junk at a lot of places so get the Standard Ignition Blue Streak FD-6769X, sold at NAPA, or the CNH #887744524 brand. NAPA has all the other USA made distributor parts too. The distributor tuneup is not difficult but is vitally important to have mounted correctly when it is done. Mount it 180° off and you will break the base around the cam tangs and render it useless. A new base would be needed then, and no need to buy a whole new unit. You already have the FO-4 Manuals but add the other Essential Manuals too. OEM 9N & 2N MPC's and the 39-53 MPC are most useful tools. Check carb settings, perform the fuel flow test. Disconnect battery, go thru the entire wiring system with correct wiring setup -see HOW-TO's/ELECTRICAL/WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR to download. Use your VOM, not a test light, and set it to 'continuity'. Don't go by wire colors. OEM Sketches are shown color coded and only for reference. The front mount uses the ballast resistor regardless if 6V or 12V. If the coil is OEM 6V, and you use 12V, you will also need an inline external 1-OHM ceramic resistor. If you run 12V and get a 12V coil, omit the external resistor. If 6V with a generator, the 9N & 2N use a round cutout circuit on back dash panel with generator but also needs a belt tensioning device. If you are using 12V, exchange the genny for an alternator and omit the cutout. I have OEM carbs, generators, and distributors if you need help. My email is open. More tech info can be found from the document "75 Tips For N-Owners" by Bruce(VA) also in HOW-TO's.








    Tim Daley(MI)

    Jason    Posted 04-03-2020 at 10:35:31 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • Ok Folks - to my utter embarrassment, I do not have a magneto, I have the common distributor. I"m going to work through the timing adjustment of the points outlined in the manual - unless someone else has an idea to try first.

    Sorry for mis-information.

    Bruce(OR)    Posted 04-03-2020 at 11:27:50 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • 2N should be a front dist. Unless you have a mutt with a side dist engine. . . .
    Do you?

    Jason Dunderman    Posted 04-03-2020 at 12:17:20 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • No, it’s a standard front mount distributor

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 04-04-2020 at 06:49:09 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • Jason,

    If you pull that distributor, I highly recommend you note the position of the rotor before you rotate ANYTHING! On the back there is a tang which fits into a slot. It is offset and if you force it together wrong, you will be looking for a new distributor. Learned the lesson the hard way on a 1941 auto many years ago.

    They are not difficult to remove or re-install.

    Good Luck,


    Bruce(OR)    Posted 04-03-2020 at 22:38:55 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • Well the front mount dist is pretty much a plug and play. Offset key way in the base of the dist shaft means it's only going in one way. The two fasteners at either end make adjustment pretty much nil. Your point gap/dwell is about the only effect you will have on timing.
    I am surprised no one else has chimed in by now.
    Pull that dist, check and reset the point gap and never throw away the old condenser when putting in new points. You would be surprised how many times the new condenser is not good out of the box.
    Before you pull that dist, note the plug wires position.
    I seem to remember a 9N I had long ago and a PO cut the power wire to the dist and installed a 110V plastic wire nut. Made taking the dist out real easy.
    Consequently my knowledge of the 9N has cobwebs growing on it.
    I won't mention the project 9N, 2N, etc in the yard. . .

    Jason    Posted 04-06-2020 at 16:38:35 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 2N No Power
  • Ok. So I did little “check the easy stuff”. Found that #3 and #4 spark plugs were reversed. Down side is that now it won’t run. Wants to fire but not run. Wants to fire at 3/4 choke closed. Sounds like not enough fuel? How should I adjust carb to start out with?

    A few other tidbits. 6v negative ground. It has an alternator, but it’s the two wire AC Delhi type and not hooked up. Neutral safety switch is operational.

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