Posted 05-06-2020 at 10:48:32 [URL] [DELETE]
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Welcome aboard. First, yes, you've gotten this far, do it right. Next, no sealer needed. Before you proceed you may want to read this. Here is a post from frequent member Kevin LaRue and what he said back in 2019:
"By the time you get enough stuff removed to get access to the front seal you are only about 6 bolts away from pulling the engine. I go ahead and put it on an engine stand to make it easier to work on. I've found things that made me glad I got a good look in there.
The front seal actually seals to the crank pulley, so when the crank pulley is removed there is a little gap. I don't think that gap is wide enough to get the old seal out and new seal in without at least removing the timing cover. A sneaky-pete tool might pull the seal outta the oil pan groove but I usually end up gradually destroying the old seal rather than getting one nice big piece pulled out.
With the engine on a stand I can be sure the job is done right. I can pull the pan, check the oil pump tube, and replace the rear seal.
I prefer to use a one-piece seal on the front if I'm using a new crank pulley. Some of the one piece seals come with a renew sleeve. If my crank pulley is bad enough to need one of those sleeves I'm just going to use a rope seal that will conform to whatever grooves it has."
What manual do you have? The I&T FO-4 Manual is a good R&R one but having all the Essential ones (see pic) are huge important tools to have. Replacing the pan gaskets and rope seals are the final step in rebuilding the engine. You have gone this far like Kevin said. Here is the kit from a reliable source, JUST8NS -Click On Link, and you can get all your parts there too.
FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
PS -I'm in Lapeer