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Subject: Problem starting my 8N Ford

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JIm Schroeder    Posted 05-21-2020 at 15:47:14 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Problem starting my 8N Ford
  • My 8N Ford has always started fairly easily and runs good. It has a key starter switch and also a large push button just above the gear shift level. I always turn on the key and push the push button to start. Now I hear no sound and nothing happens. I replaced the solenoid and this did not help. I hocked up jumper cables to the starter and a ground and the motor will turn over. I have concluded the problem is in the push button starter; but in removing it, I see two points (?) and don't see any easy answer. Who can help me on this? If possible, call me at 405-615-5445. AN OKIE WITH A PROBLEM. tHANKS

    Bob in KS    Posted 05-23-2020 at 09:21:20 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Problem starting my 8N Ford
  • Tim is on track with suspecting a battery problem

    On an 8N the start push button grounds the small pin on the solenoid, so you can bypass the push button by grounding the wire that connects to the side of it. If that makes starter engage you have a push button problem, if still no start check back toward battery.

    I have found a number of starter problems caused by bad or corroded battery ends, cables, and cable connections, especially the ground cable connection to the frame.

    On my 8N I removed the short ground cable that connected to tool box frame work and replaced with a longer cable that connected down to the main frame.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 05-22-2020 at 05:29:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Problem starting my 8N Ford
  • HiYa Jim-
    Your symptom describes a dead battery. Do you use a battery float charger when tractor is not in use? Highly recommended. Is your electrical system the OEM 6V/POS GRN or has a 12V switch out job been done on it? It matters when you are jump starting from your car or truck battery. The power source/battery is the heart of any system. It must meet specific gravity, sustain a full charge under load, and ensure proper connections are made at all times. It isn't the starter as you found out. You are grasping at straws -don't guess. Testing and Root Cause problem solve for any problem. Doubtful your starter safety pushbutton switch is faulty as well -hold off on buying any more parts until you get the battery tested; it's most likely all you may need to buy. Start here: Your local starter/alternator shop or auto parts store will have the bench testing machine so take it there. Read further and if you don't already have the Essential Manuals, invest in them. Know that 99% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring as well so once battery is confirmed to be good, you can proceed to verify the entire wiring system before you turn over. Go to our HOW-TO's forum as well and under electrical is 'WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR' -see LINK -and download a copy as well as '75 Tips for N-Owners' by Bruce(VA).

    *from Bruce(VA)...

    You need a strong battery to:

    1. Spin the starter
    2. Engage the Bendix
    3. Provide voltage to the coil.

    Tips on battery care and performance:
    As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge –no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. I'm not sure who makes the NAPA one but I've heard good things about it. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125.

    A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. SEE DENNIS CARPENTER or JUST8Ns. Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.
    A float charger is VERY helpful; NOT a trickle charger, but a float charger, like the DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr.® ™. It is a popular brand, available at Walmart, $30. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. Connect the battery Tender to your battery when the tractor is idle for periods over a week.

    BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:



    FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

    Tim Daley(MI)

    John in MIch    Posted 05-21-2020 at 17:33:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Problem starting my 8N Ford
  • Before trying to replace the starter button: have you cleaned the connection? The button provides a ground through the transmision case to the battery. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.
    If it turns out to be the start button, it is easy to replace by removing the transmission top cover.

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