N Board Forum - Expanded Thread Page

Subject: 9N New Owner

[Back] [Return to Top of Forum]

Dustin    Posted 12-20-2020 at 21:37:54 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 9N New Owner
  • I inherited my great grandfathers Ford Ferguson 1940 9N. This was the first tractor he ever purchased.

    At a glance I cannot read the serial on the tractor itself due to rust, but I have the original Ford Tractor gift binder that shows serial No. 8223.

    I'm guessing it hasn't run in several decades. It was up on jack stands and the hand crank turns over the rear wheels.

    It is rusty and greasy and rather worn looking, but I would like to restore it to the best of my ability.

    My question for the experts is what are some of the things I should look out for that may be a show stopper on a full restoration?



    Dustin    Posted 12-23-2020 at 21:48:27 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Here are some additional pictures

    9N - 1939

    Looks like the clips are all broken on the battery cover, better to have a door hinge than no cover at all I guess.

    Thanks for all the info, I have my work cut out for me.

    Tim King    Posted 12-24-2020 at 14:21:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • One thing is for sure, you have the perfect machine and you found the right place to rub elbows with the experts than can help you make it happen. Im a complete newbie, still learning, and taking notes.

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 12-24-2020 at 14:08:24 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • You can straighten the battery door and fabricating new springs is relatively easy. You can order the annealed spring steel from McMaster-Carr and drill the rivet holes and bend them into shape then take them over to any heat treating shop and they can get the spring function done at almost no cost. I made a new spring clip for my aluminum hood battery cover and it was much easier than I thought it would be. I took it over to a heat treating shop and they did it for free just because of the novelty of what I was doing. I have a reproduction battery cover on my steel hood 39 and the springs are simple compared the an old aluminum one.

    Keep in mind the 39 hood and battery door is unique, none of the later models are the same. The 39 is narrower, the ridge width along the top is narrower and the hole for the battery is different so plan on saving yours. I recommend finding a junk hood (later is fine) for getting some sections to weld in where it appears to be rested through along the top of the grill, and of course you will need an aluminum grill from Dennis Carpenter or Just 8N's. That too will need some trimming at the top center as the angles are wrong against the hood front on all the reproduction grills. To make it right you will have to grind away some of the center-the repos are all with a flatter angle than Ford produced. Not difficult-I had to do mine.

    Del    Posted 12-24-2020 at 14:47:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Steve, I got this OEM belt for early 9N from a former Ford dealer. Did they all have the logo stamped on them.

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 12-26-2020 at 18:08:38 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Hi Del,

    I don't know on that, I have never had a stock fan belt. Scott in NJ has sold some, try him. Merry Xmas!

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-24-2020 at 06:47:25 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • If you have the 2-Wire/2-Brush 7A GEN, it has a 'B' Circuit Design and the roundcan cutout won't work. I don't see either in your rear dash photo. Since the OEM VR isn't repopped new now, and originals are just about impossible to find, you can substitute the NAA VR as it is designed for the NAA GEN that is a 'B' Circuit as well. Go to Dennis Carpenter for one, p/n FAG-10505-A, or JUST8Ns for all your part needs. You'll have to fabricate a mounting setup as the NAA VR does not follow the 9N VR bolt hole mount. As I stated below, the pulley on yours is incorrect but I have NEW exact originals and NOS brushes as well. Here is a document from our HOW-TO's forum on all the early 9N Generators with the details - click on LINK. Rear tires may be loaded with Calcium Chloride which when they leaked out, would rust the Hat Rims from the inside out. Hat Rims are not easy to find, especially the 32" ones. The serial number location on the cast boss on the block by the oil filter housing can be gently resurrected in order to clearly pronounce the engine serial number. DO NOT USE ANY ABRASIVE media like sanding, filing, or machining. Use a rust remover like Naval Jelly, and get a brass wire brush and an old toothbrush to start with. Get the rust off first working it in with the toothbrush on the Naval Jelly. The wire brush can then be used if number is still unclear. Serial numbers were hand-stamped by a worker and often poorly/weak. My s/n 8N-I55I3 was like this and I had to finally use Magna-Flux and a black light to see the number. In your other photo I see an OEM cast iron PTO Cap and the 3-PT leveling Crank. The snap-in battery cover can be repaired so don’t pitch it.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 12-23-2020 at 18:26:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • You might take a look around to see if you can find the original CM Hall headlights-although judging from the wing on the dogleg showing they probably got mashed somewhere along the line. Hood looks pretty good except for front edge along the grill top that will need repair and of course the snap in fuel tank/battery cover. Looks like you have an "A" generator-those are worth the better part of $1K. It will be quite a bit of work, but you have most of the parts there to make it work. My hood was lots worse!

    Kirk-NJ    Posted 12-23-2020 at 11:53:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Judging by one of your photos I would not try starting it without first proving up the gear shift as not to damage gears below. The fix is in the manual section on this site.

    Kirk-NJ    Posted 12-23-2020 at 09:58:19 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Judging by one of your photos I would not try starting it without first proving up the gear shift as not to damage gears below. The fix is in the manual section on this site.

    Lynn Patrick    Posted 12-23-2020 at 09:04:39 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Where are you located? If anywhere close I have a set of 19" proper front rims I would give you to start the project!

    Dustin    Posted 12-23-2020 at 09:17:24 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • I'm in north central Ohio.

    I have the original front wheels, I found them digging through the old barn.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-23-2020 at 07:40:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner


    I inherited my grandfathers’ early/1939 9N in 1997 when my uncle passed away and my Mom had to sell them farm and hold an auction. Family got first crack at anything they wanted so I took the 9N and all of the original implements that came with it. I never knew my grandpa; he died the year before I was born so a total original restoration as a tribute to him, my Mom, and my uncles is only fitting. I have all the original parts but restoration has yet to be started. A good friend and I will be tackling this project in the spring.

    First thing I see is the small generator but can’t tell if it’s an A or B. If an A it will have 2-Wires, if a B it will have only 1-Wire and a 3rd Brush "HI-LO” Slider Button on the back end plate. The belt tension strap is ho-made – 9N gennys didn’t have a tensioner. If it’s a B GEN it would use the roundcan cutout. If it a the A GEN it would use the rectangular Voltage Regulator. It has the wrong pulley; it would be a tad smaller the barrel diameter. I have one if you want to contact me –email is open.
    The early 1939 rear axle hubs were smooth, and by 1940 they had to change to riveted hubs – see pictures. Note they were riveted, not bolted to centers.



    Your dash panel says 1939. The 4-Spoke Steering Wheel is correct but the center chrome cap was smooth and did not have the FORD script logo. The 1938/39 FORD trucks and school buses also used the 4-Spoke as well but they had a horn feature which the tractor did not. It is possible your cap is from one of those. I don’t know for sure if they had the script logo but I’m guessing they did.

    You also show the OEM snap-in battery/fuel door cover. The ho-made hinge and bend can be fixed. Appears to be the OEM chromed STANT rad cap so the large non-pressurized radiator would also be correct.

    Looks like you are missing most of the 3-Point Lift arms and linkages. Used parts are around. The original front rims were 3 x 19 with single rib 4 x 19 tires. New repop Firestones are available –see MILLER TIRE. Yours are altered with larger rims and truck tires. Fenders are also missing. Grille was changed and I think the doglegs too OEM were smooth.

    The original Sediment Bulb Assembly was brass, also elusive to locate.

    The 9N-400 non-flip 9-Hole Steel Pan Seat was original. FORD offered an optional plastic pan seat, 9N-400-B, that was made using soybean polymers. These did not last long and were discontinued by 1941. Running boards and lights were never OEM features. Headlights had the 'winged' medallions, one appears to mounted upside down and has busted off. Ford offered a lighting kit from dealers as optional accessories. The large, truck style buckets were supplied by CM HALL and the taillight was supplied by TAURUS LAMP CO.

    The good news is the 4-Spoke Steering Wheel and the aluminum horizontal bar grille are reproduced nowadays and there is no shame in getting them to complete a restoration. Very few FORD TRACTOR guys would be able to tell the difference. Some parts like double ribbed fenders and 32” Hat Rims can be found here and there.

    The bad news is that some of these early parts are just rare as hen’s teeth to locate. The early GENS and Voltage Regulator, 4-Spoke, and Aluminum Grille for example are the most sought after and most elusive to find.

    Here’s the LINK to John Smiths’ document on Ford Tractor ID and some history.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Jack-Iowa    Posted 12-22-2020 at 20:18:00 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Just looked at your picture. You've definitely got a keeper there!

    Worse thing I see is that strap hinge on the battery cover.

    Certainly you've got some work ahead of you but it will be a joy just thinking what you're doing.

    Dustin    Posted 12-22-2020 at 18:32:01 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Thanks for all the replies.

    This seems like it will end up being quite a project. I have a lot of studying to do before I even think about getting into it.

    I have the fenders and original front wheels, not pictured.

    thoughts after looking at the pics?

    Tim King    Posted 12-22-2020 at 20:17:35 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Hopefully you still have a smooth axle on the left side, the right seems to be the ones that broke most often.

    Dustin    Posted 12-22-2020 at 21:03:36 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Do you mean on the outside of the rear wheel?

    Tim King    Posted 12-22-2020 at 21:17:36 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Check out the pic that Tim posted. The gray one is yours. Notice the axle is smooth and don't have bolt heads.

    Take all the pics you can and post,even under the hood and dash area. Might just have all the original stuff still having the beer can generator is a great sign. Hopefully the dash housing isn't broke by the battery,regardless some of those things are fairly easy to find.

    Dustin    Posted 12-22-2020 at 23:03:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Both sides have bolts instead of smooth. I take it those are not original to the 39's?

    I'll take more pics tomorrow.

    Tim King    Posted 12-22-2020 at 20:05:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • The hard part is over, you have the machine.
    Lord have mercy son, look at all them goodies.4 spoke wheel,beer can generator,32 hats, dash,emblems.

    That is a keeper for sure.
    Keep it in the shop and be proud, that is a score..

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 12-22-2020 at 17:38:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • As others have noted, yours is a 1939, probably a December production of 1939. You should try to give us a few photos, if you cannot get them on to the board, send them to Tim Daly and he can probably put them up. Sounds like it is worth a full restoration since it has been in your family. Start reading up and take it slow and get it right. Good luck, sounds like a real Christmas tractor.

    Lynn Patrick    Posted 12-22-2020 at 09:17:47 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • The most important part of all this is your first sentence! Most of us (I think I can assume that!) would give a LOT to be able to say that!

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-22-2020 at 06:07:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Here's a photo of a correctly restored early 9N and an early Ford 8N Tractor from Steve Dabrowski. You can't see many of the design differences in this shot but from the profile view you can see some of them. Go to the LINK below to get some more details on the Ford N's.



    Tim King    Posted 12-21-2020 at 20:46:01 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Congratulations. I would take my time and heed the advice given.Most of these guys have years of experience under their belts and gladly point you in the right direction.
    Dry starting a well aged machine is the worst thing you can do in my opinion.
    Having a low number machine in itself is something to be proud of.The fact that it was Granpa's makes it even more special.
    You may consider adding it to the registry on this site and notice some the photos of the fully restored tractors.
    Hope to hear more from you and your progress.

    John in Mich    Posted 12-21-2020 at 19:32:06 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Welcome! A 1939, like Tim and Kirk said, based on the number that you listed. I have a '39 number 9N 8047. It is patiently waiting for me to work on it. So many projects.
    Be patient and ask questions. Everyone here is willing to offer help.
    Not knowing where you are located, it is hard to know what to tell you. Reason? If you are in a warm climate, you can do some work outside. Colder climate, not so easy.
    Also, how much of a "restore" are you planning? Just getting it running to use or rebuild to original specs (as much as possible) and show it.
    I would NOT try to start it yet! Scrape and brush off the grease and dirt, then hit it with a degreaser and a power washer. Make sure there are no openings that might trap water and freeze.
    Drain all of the fluids: water/anti-freeze, engine oil and filter, transmission, hydraulic and differential. Put a tag on them "NO OIL" and "NO COOlANT) so that you don't forget.
    Next, I would pull the spark plugs and spray something like Marvel Mystery Oil (what I use) into the spark plug holes and roll the engine over with the hand crank. Let it set for a few days and then repeat.
    I would take the starter and generator off and have them rebuilt, period. This will eliminate one/two possible headaches later.
    Pull the carburator and distributor. Rebuild them.
    Plan to replace all of the wiring. Again, it will save you some headaches later.
    Being that it has not run in so many years, I would pull the bottom pan and check all of the crankshaft bearings, one at a time. Note which way each cap is oriented. If bearings and journals look good, smear some STP on them and reinstall. Torque to specs.
    I have probably forgotten something and others will chime in, believe me! LOL

    Kirk-NJ    Posted 12-21-2020 at 06:38:50 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • If that is your number than it's a '39. if you can not read the serial number than look at the trans number on the flange lip at the rear of the trans on top. This number should be within a couple/few hundred of your original engine serial number.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-21-2020 at 04:47:07 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 9N New Owner
  • Welcome aboard! Having an heirloom is precious and wanting to preserve it is a tribute to your ancestors. If it is indeed serial number *9N-8223* then it is a 1939 model. Serial numbers were hand stamped on a cast boss on the LH block near the oil filter canister and just below the head. They’d be ID’d with a STAR symbol prefix and suffix. The top of the Home Page here has a red menu bar to select from. Go to the LINKS forum here and search for ‘John Smith/Tractor ID & History’ to help further your search. There is much to learn about the Ford-Ferguson 9N Tractor before you even fire it up so first order would be to get yourself copies of the ESSENTIAL MANUALS. We have some in our MANUALS forum and a ton of info in our HOW-TO’s forum plus years of archived posts with most questions asked and answered before. Here is a link to the first 9N tractor parts manual –March, 1940 so you can start there and download a copy for yourself. You’ll need a copy of ADOBE or equivalent to use it as it is in pdf. Both are free to use. Early 9N’s used different parts than the later ones. It is important you know the differences. ALL FORD vehicles used the 6V/Positive Ground electrical system and from 1932 thru 1950 used the front mount distributor. The unit is specific and must be mounted one way correctly otherwise damage to the unit will result. There are specific components to the early 9N, electrical is just one and only used until April, 1940. If you don’t have these parts now, locating originals will be a quest for the Holy Grail. They are not easy to find. The 9N-10000-A generator is a small diameter 2-Wire/2-Brush 7A, ‘B’ Circuit unit that uses a rectangular Voltage Regulator. Finding these two parts alone is a task in and of itself. Other early 9N parts are the 4-spoke steering wheel; the aluminum horizontal bar grille; brass Sediment Bulb; snap-in battery door; 9 x 32 rear tires on Hat Rims; Ignition Lamp, LH Dash; Ignition Key Switch, RH Dash; non-pressurized radiator w/chromed STANT cap; chromed throttle handle and shifter handle (4” only); smooth rear axle hubs; double ribbed fenders; and more. All 9N & 2N models had no running boards or flip-up pan seats. Get the manuals and documents and read before trying to fire it up, and don’t just start replacing parts with new. From our HOW-TO's forum, ELECTRICAL/Wiring Pictograms by JMOR is a big help too. Lights were never factory installed components - only dealer supplied optional accessories on the N's. You can email me for more help if needed.



    Tim Daley(MI)

    [Back] [Return to Top of Forum]