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Subject: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question

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Beth and Allen    Posted 01-24-2021 at 03:27:43 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Sediment bowl and valve assembly question
  • Hi everybody hope all are doing well. My question is about the fuel shut off and sediment bowl on my Naa. It appears to be original (MHV 180 097 MI) is on the valve assembly. First I had a leakage problem with the bowl not sealing and I found a slight imperfection in the lip of the glass bowl, appears to be a mold seam from when it was made. I was able to buff it out and make it smooth, next I found the gasket is all shriveled up and doesn't fit well. I made a new one from nice thick gasket material so I think I've got that taken care of. The next issue is the stem for turning the gas on and off is loose and leaks when gas is on, I took it apart and found there is a packing around the stem on the inside that appears to be all withered up, but when I went online I couldn't find a replacement. Does anyone know if they still make that, or is there another solution? Thanks and God Bless, Beth and Allen.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-24-2021 at 06:37:00 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question
  • "It appears to be original (MHV 180 097 MI) is on the valve assembly..." Where is the Sediment Bulb on a valve assembly? Where did you find that number? It's NOT a Ford number -looks like a Massey-Ferguson number to me or possibly just an aftermarket supplier number - means nothing. Ford part numbers would have a 9N, 2N, 8N, or NAA prefix codes but not stamped or cast on the part. The Ford Sediment Bulb Assembly is p/n 2N-9155-B, used on all N's up to '54.

    Always use the correct 1/4" steel brake/fuel lines. Dennis Carpenter & Just8Ns make the exact-as-original pre-bent fuel line, NAA-9282-D. Never use copper, nylon, plastic, or aluminum. Brake and fuel lines use a special thread size - 7/16-24 UNS. Many fellas muck them up by using the wrong tap or thread die to "fix" a part with and all it does is cross thread with the wrong pitch which in turn causes leaks. On the Sediment Bulb Assembly, the line connects to the output port. The other end inserts into the brass elbow on the carb. Use a 7/6" Flare Nut Wrench to do the final tightening and do not overtighten.

    Often times leaks are the result of the Sediment Bulb Valve Stem. There is a rubber seal, some newer aftermarket units use vinyl, on the stem that will eventually wear out, get torn, and thus leak. The vinyl ones are more prone to early failure. Sometimes leaks are coming from it and misdiagnosed as being a bad connection elsewhere. The valve stem is a $6 part. It is the only wear part on the assembly. You don't need to buy a whole new assembly when repairing them. The stem uses the same size thread into the bulb base as the fuel line. Get a new valve stem and a new cork gasket and brass screen for the jar when doing PM. The stem is p/n APN-9194 and comes with a new knurled knob, 8-32 screw, and #8 star lockwasher. I always put a dab of Loctite on the screw to ensure it never comes off the assembly in the field. You never need to take it off either until the next valve stem replacement. Remove and clean the old cork gasket in the unit and also on the glass bowl. Take a piece of Emery Cloth or fine sandpaper on a flat surface and gently rotate the bowl lip to remove any old cork or varnish.

    Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. Never shove anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean.

    The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.



    FORD TRACTOR 1939-1953 MPC:


    Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

    Kimberly    Posted 01-24-2021 at 22:14:41 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question
  • Is this proper for his tractor?


    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 01-25-2021 at 06:51:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question
  • Yeah, Kim, I wrote this document and that is exactly what I said in my other post. The APN-9194 Valve Stem has a seal on the shaft to prevent leaking. Over time, it will get chewed up and torn from constant use and start leaking. That is when you pull the stem and replace it with a new one. Some of the cheaper Cheena-cloned makers use a thinner, vinyl seal/sleeve which will fail much sooner. Have you ever gone to the barn at the end of the day to shut down the tractor and discovered the Valve Stem ON/OFF Knob was missing? I started putting a dab of Loctite Thread Sealant on the #8-32 screw that secures the Knob on so it can't come off back around 1990. The knob is fastened to the stem. The unit has no other function and will not interfere with the Bulb Assembly. When you get a new stem, a new knob and screw is included, or should be. You simply apply a dab to the new screw and you are done. Old stem removed with the old knob and goes in your junk drawer. Those who keep replacing the entire Sediment Bulb over and over due to leaks have something else wrong; usually it's cross-threaded or incorrect threads on fuel line male or female fittings or the NPT thread on the gas tank and Bulb assembly.


    Tim Daley(MI)

    Kimberly    Posted 01-25-2021 at 12:12:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question
  • Mine went to leaking years ago. I took it apart and used a small O-ring and it worked; hasn't leaked since. It might not be the the same as a replacement seal but it worked.

    Beth And Allen    Posted 01-24-2021 at 10:29:46 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Response to Tim Daly
  • Thanks for responding to me, as for the fuel line I have exactly what is supposed to be on there(steel brake line type threads,) and I've got the sediment bowl (bulb) leakage issue solved. My issue is the valve stem shown in the second picture and the packing that is shown in that picture. The packing on the valve stem seems to be all shriveled up (like me) and doesn't seal around the shaft as shown when I turn it out to turn on the fuel. I saw replacement valve stems but wasn't sure it would fit properly in mine. The numbers I posted are cast into the top if the casting, and it's most likely a Ferguson part but it's been on it since I've owned the tractor 20 plus years. I'll order a replacement valve stem and try it, but I would much replace the packing and retain the old valve stem if I could. Thanks and God Bless, Beth and Allen.

    Beth and Allen    Posted 01-26-2021 at 17:45:11 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re:Question to Kimberly
  • Hi Kimberly I've got "ALL" the gas leaks stopped for now. Even though the assembly is most likely a Ferguson part, as Tim Daley stated, it is identical to fords assembly. Most likely have been put on in the very early life of my tractor since I've had it for over 20 years. My Question is, where did you find an O-ring to fit the valve stem? I would much rather just put in a new O-ring when (and if) it ever starts to leak there again, than buy a maybe it will fit part. I already have an over abundance of will fit parts that don't. Hope you can tell me the size and or where to buy those O-rings. Thanks and God Bless, Beth and Allen.

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