About 12/13 years ago I was replacing my 8N rear drag link seals and decided to make a replica of the KR WILSON Installation Tool -see photo. It works perfectly and won't damage the leather or rubber. I made it out of H13 tool steel so it is tough stuff.

One thing we may be able to do on the new TOOLS forum is offer to lend/lease some of these 'specialty tools' many of us have made like this one. Donations to the NTC could be made instead of a rental fee but we can leave that up to the renter. Of course the understanding is too if you break it you bought it. Details can be worked out between the two parties involved that way the NTC won't be held responsible or get involved other than offering a place that members can meet and search for solutions to their projects. Just spitballing and thinking out loud here...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

"One thing we may be able to do on the new TOOLS forum is offer to lend/lease some of these 'specialty tools' many of us have made like this one. Donations to the NTC could be made instead of a rental fee but we can leave that up to the renter."

Of course this statement would have to be discussed and voted on with the other admins. :-)

I do like Ed's thought on this about the sharing culture of this club. How-to sounds like a great idea.

Tyler

An 1.25/1.5" double female pvc connector works, too.

Between my English and metric deep well sockets I use them as they fit. Crude but works.

Yeah, I tried a large socket first but wasn't satisfied with the fit and didn't find one that was right. Not easy to hang onto while smacking with a BFH. Plus, didn't want to be banging on a socket with a BFH so decided to design and make my own from the KR WILSON picture. I actually made a few and gave all but one away to friends.

Tim Daley(MI)

I think it would be more in concert with the sharing culture of this website to write a How-To on how to make your own, Tim.

My 2-cents........Ed

HiYa Ed-
I can do up a basic procedure since I looked at the KR WILSON tool on page 3 of their catalog, took a new dust seal and a drag link, then reversed engineered the installation tool myself as I did not have an actual tool to copy, so did my best to replicate it. I drew it up the old fashioned way - on paper, NOT using Auto Cad, then processed it the way I would normally process a job for CNC Manufacturing. I wrote the process sheet, wrote the CNC G-Code Program, set up the CNC Lathe, and ran the parts myself in two operations. I turned the head end first then set up the second operation to turn the shaft end complete with a knurling tool to better grip it with -just like the original shows. Now, I programmed little .01 radius corners breaks, a common CNC machining practice, and small chamfers as needed along with an undercut in the counterbore where the seal base sets into so as to prevent any improper alignment. There needs to be a drilled hole in the center of the recess to clear the drag link threaded end too. The entire CNC set up and program itself I can make available but one could make these on a manual engine lathe if they are a turning pro and have all the correct tools to do so. The knurling tool I suppose could be optional, but after first trying to install a new dust seal using a large socket, I concluded it was a PITA to hang onto with one hand while trying to keep aligned and from boogerin' up the seal. I practiced with an old seal first. This is a tool that one would need to use maybe one or two times in the life of their tractor, heck when I did mine for my 8N, it still had the original leather rear dust seals on it! that is why I offered to make it available to anyone wanting to rent it out. I'll see what I can do to do a HOW-TO's write up...

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim Daley(MI)

I have solid works so if you can get me a drawing I can make the solid of it. Then a print.