Re: 9N engine goes from idle to high rpm quickly

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on February 13, 2018 at 07:30:52 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: 9N engine goes from idle to high rpm quickly posted by Mark on February 12, 2018 at 20:28:33:

Hi Mark-
Welcome to the wonderful world of vintage Ford N-Series tractors. You will find a ton of useful information here in our other forums. Our HOW-TO's has much to offer as well as the MANUALS and HISTORY forums. The archives can be valuable learning tool as well. Most questions and issues have been discussed before so you may find your answers there. Just plug in a keyword or words and read all the old posts that have been archived. It requires some patience to do as you will have to scroll through and read each one ad they are not saved in chronological order, unfortunately. My advice is to first get yourself copies or originals of the essential manuals. The I&T F-04 Manual; the '39-'53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog); the 9N Owners/Operator manual; and the 9N Service Manual are important to keep handy. You need to understand about the front mount distributor, 6-volt/positive ground electrical system, the hydraulic system with draft control, and the 3-seed transmission. You don't say if your 9N is 6-volt or 12-volt, but in our HOW-TO's, under subcategory ELECTRICAL, scroll down to WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR and download a copy for your shop library/coffee table. He has put together a very good instructional document on how to correctly wire these old N's whether 6-volt or 12-volt. Be aware hat may of these N's have been 'converted' to 12-volts and many are done correctly. In my opinion, adding a snake-oil product like Sea Foam isn't doing anything really and is the same as adding charcoal lighter fluid -same main ingredient -mineral spirits. Mineral Spirits will loosen up gunk and clean good, but you would have been better off to just drain all the fluids and put fresh in before staring it since you say the PO (Previous Owner) didn't use the tractor much. I'd, removing the carburetor, rebuild it, as well as doing a tune-up by removing the distributor and rebuilding it. I also would have checked the hydraulic fluid before starting it up to see if the oil is contaminated with water. It will be a murky brown or off-whitish color if so. In that case do not operate the lift as the pump may need to be serviced. I'd hold off on the governor rebuild until later. If you are going to remove the carb, distributor, and/or governor, you should rebuild them not just 'clean' them. The electrical system is very important as well. Start with the battery. Whether 6-volt or 12-volt, you must have a good, reliable brand of battery like DEKA, INTERSTATE, or EXIDE. Avoid bargain-house brands as they have very poor lifespans and can be bad out of the box. The battery must be fully charged and able to sustain the charge under load in order to crank over the engine. Your trusty, local starter/alternator shop can bench test it, usually for free. Wiring is important too. The spark plugs will be replaced when you do a tune-up. The original Ford Tractor Spark Plug was spec'd as the 14 mm Champion H-10. they are still made and sold today but since then, Champion released a hotter plug, the H-12, also listed as the '512' plug nowadays. Many N-Owners also use the AUTO-LITE 437 plug, sold sometimes as the 216 plug today. ALL of these plug work well. I use the H-12 or the 437 plugs nowadays and never had any issues with any of them. One last thing for now is to know your Nís capabilities and how to safely maintain and operate it.


Tim Daley(MI)

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