In Reply to: Re: 6 volt positive ground? posted by James Mort on May 17, 2018 at 06:41:03:
We already mentioned getting the WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR document downloaded and use it as a valuable tool. Be aware that trying to save $$$ and buying the bargain-house brand batteries can be an unwise choice. Off-brands usually only last about two years and some can be junk out the door. Get a good brand like INTERTSTATE, DEKA, or EXIDE, a GP-1 AG type and no DEEP CYCLE type. Average cost of a good brand is about $125 but well worth the investment and can expect at least 5 years life out of it. Your trusty starter shop usually carries the decent brands and you can get the core charge lifted by trading in your old battery. Also invest the proper battery cables. Then verify the rets of the wiring is correct too. I don't see how you are getting it to stay running by jumping it. there's more to it than just putting a new battery in as stated already. The FEL won't interfere with installing a new battery but can inhibit getting to the distributor. While battery is disconnected or removed, diagnose all the wiring. Generator uses a cutout. Starter shop can bench test all your electrical parts too. In my document on early 9N/2N generator article I detail the correct way to polarize the generator with a cutout. Get all the wiring right BEFORE connecting the battery. Polarizing will be the LAST step done BEFORE applying power with the key switch/starter button. I'm jumping ahead here a bit, but once you get your new tractor running properly, you might want to invest in a float charger aka a Battery Tender and leave it connected when tractor is not in use. It will preserve the life of the battery and keep it a full charge so it's ready to use when you are. here's a LINK to an old post by Bruce(VA) on why using a float charger is beneficial.