Re: Cranking but no start

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on June 13, 2018 at 18:06:47 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Cranking but no start posted by John on June 13, 2018 at 09:51:09:

HiYa John-
If engine/starter only click, click, clicks when you try to crank over, chances are the battery is dead. You can test for DC voltage static with a VOM, but if it is bad (won't sustain a charge) simply charging it won't help for long. Take the battery to your local starter shop or auto parts store and they will bench test it on their special test equipment. The battery must hold a full charge under load, meaning specific gravity of electrolyte is sufficient in order to qualify as good. 7 months setting idle is a long time and battery probably discharged a bit before that, especially if it was weak to start with. If you need a new battery, many of us suggest avoiding the cheaper bargain house ones as life span is about 2 years on average, and spend about $125 on a decent brand like INTERSTATE, DEKA, or EXIDE. A 6V AG type is GRP-1; a 12V type is GRP-25 or GRP-35. Also think about investing in a "BATTERY TENDER" brand of float trickle charger. Keep it connected when tractor is not running and you will not only extend the life of the battery further, but always have a full charge and ready to go when you need it. While you are getting the battery tested, you will need to fix that leaking Fuel Sediment Bulb. Most of the leaks on these occur when the Fuel Valve Stem seal inside it gets worn out -it is only a rubber sleeve, and some new units actually use vinyl. You don't need to replace the entire Sediment Bulb Assembly. The valve stem is the only working mechanical part. While at it, replace the fine mesh brass horizontal screen and cork gasket -about a $3 kit. The other possible leak point is the fuel line inlet port. This port and the valve stem port use fuel and brake line special threads -7/16-24, and often get boogered up with guys trying to tap with something else or cross thread the bulb ports trying to fasten the line or valve stem. The fuel line fittings are usually good steel but the bulb assembly is zinc or pewter so the softer metal always gives. If one or both are stripped, a whole new sediment bulb will be needed. When installing the valve stem, I always put a dab of thread sealant on the small 8-32 screw that secures the knurled knob onto the stem. WHY? I've lost a few before as they loosen up while in the field and fall off, lost forever. Also, with a new valve stem assembly kit you get a new knob and screw. Once it is assembled, it won't ever need to be removed until the next time. They don't sell just the sediment bulb knobs so if you lose one, you need to buy an entire assembly to get another. An ounce of prevention mans no hiccups later. test for leaks BEFORE firing up engine. Bottom line: Get battery fixed or replaced, and get fuel leak issue root cause determined and resolved.



Tim Daley(MI)
Retired Manufacturing Engineer -35+ Years

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