In Reply to: Re: 8N running rough posted by Jeff on June 30, 2018 at 21:03:31:
These N's will run on positive or negative ground, 6V or 12V but all old Fords were designed on the 6V/POS GRN system -it is a technical design based on electron flow -positive ground gives better flow to spark plugs. You say you do have generator, okay, do you also have a voltage regulator? If so, what does it look like and where is it located? The generator must be polarized to operate on whatever your choice is. If you had it 6V/POS GRN and installed a new battery as NEG GRN, the genny will not spin right. If your AMMETER is the original induction 'loop' style, you can test with a simple circuit and your (good) battery or sweep a magnet over the faceplate and see if the needle moves. If you have a distributor that negates an EI. $437 seems an enormous amount unless, everything was replaced -distributor, wiring, voltage regulator, and possibly coil and plugs and maybe more. The fuel flow test should be performed before removing and/or replacing the Sediment Bulb and/or screens. With engine COLD, Sediment Bulb valve CLOSED, loosen and remove the NPT drain plug on the bottom of the carb. be sure to have a container below to catch the fuel in. Now open the Sediment Bulb Fuel Valve 2 Full turns only. Fuel flow thru the drain port should be a steady stream and fill a pint jar in 2 minutes. If so you are fine. If not, close valve and replace the drain plug. Next, go to the carb fuel inlet brass elbow and with a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench, a standard 7/16 open end or Crescent Wrench will work but NO pliers, Channel Locks, or Vise Grips. Loosen the fuel line coming from the Sediment Bulb. Slip the line with the fitting up over the elbow and point the fuel line down into the container. Now open the Fuel Valve 2 Full Turns only. Observe if the fuel flow is an almost pencil-thick stream, unobstructed, with no hesitation, sputtering, stopping and starting. If flow is sufficient, no problems with your fuel flow. Close valve, and at this point it wouldn't hurt to remove and clean the brass elbow inlet. It has a fine mesh screen attached at the end, the last of three inline screens in the system. Note the carb has an NPT tapped port for the brass elbow fuel inlet. DO NOT ATTEMPT to clean the threads with anything but the correct NPT tap. The brass elbow has, as does the Sediment Bulb fuel out port and fuel valve port a special thread too -it is industry standard for brake and fuel lines at 7/16"-24 UNS. Any attempt to chase the threads with the wrong tap or die would be disastrous. If you don't know, leave it alone. As I said, forget compression for now. You must have fuel and spark first and chances are there-in lies your problems. If you think you have good fuel flow, then spark is next. If no spark, now it's time to do a thorough system verification of the entire wiring and components. That is where I'm leaning to as your root cause problem.