Re: 1942 9n

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on July 06, 2018 at 05:34:03 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: 1942 9n posted by David on July 05, 2018 at 19:01:19:

HiYa David-
Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford N-Series Tractors. Have you much experience with tractors, vintage or otherwise? If a newbie, do you have the essential owner/operator manuals? They should have been the first purchase made or at least at the same time as when you bought the tractor. You made a rookie mistake by buying a new carb and replacing the old one. No one is faulting you, we've all done that too, but chances are the original is good, just possibly needs a rebuild if one hasn't been done in awhile. These old Fords were designed and engineered so major parts could be rebuilt over and over. Most new parts sod today are made in Cheena and usually junk. Also, just taking a new part out of the box and installing it does not ensure it is been set properly. Probably not even close. If you need, I rebuild carbs, distributors, governors, water pumps, starters, generators, and more, -my email is open. Let's get started...

A methodical, root cause problem solving technique must be initiated for any problem, whatever the situation is. In addition to a copy of Bruce(VA)'s "75 Tips for N-Owners", save a copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS BY JMOR" from our HOIW-TO's/ELECTRICAL forum. Jesse has shown all the CORRECT ways on which to wire these old N's regardless if 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. Next, Three things are required in order to run efficiently: FUEL, SPARK, and COMPRESSION. I’ll add a fourth – CORRECTLY WIRED. It is very important we know if you have a 6V/POS GRN system or a 12V/NEG GRN system. Is there an EI device added? Equally important is to know which model you have and are dealing with –changes were made over the years and some affect how your electrical system operates. Your problem could be fuel flow -there is a simple test for that, or, possibly and more than likely an electrical issue. Running for 15 minutes and the shutting down is sometimes attributed to a bad coil –one that got burnt up from leaving the key switch ‘ON’ at shut down. If the coil got fried internally, the tar insulation melted. Then the wiring will short out and cause your engine to stop running. When you let it set for bit it cools down and the insulation solidifies again forming an insulated barrier but once it gets hot it melts away and thus shorts out and the process begins all over. If you have the original OEM 6V/POS GRN system, after s/n 12500, you should have a 1-wire/3-Brush generator, a round-can cutout circuit on lower rear steering box, a 1-wire starter with NO solenoid, and OEM Ballast Resistor, an Ammeter, the correct key switch, and a good, fully tested 6V GRP-1 battery, and ALL wired correctly. We have a ton of FREE downloads in our HOW-TO's forum and MANUALS forum as well. here's the LINK below to the WIRING PICTOGRAMS. Start here with the basic baby steps and do a lot of reading. Also, don't buy any more new parts until the root cause is determined, and then only if any are needed in the first place. If you have fuel flow, then the next step is electrical, and it is my gut feeling therein lies your problem.




Tim Daley(MI)

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