In Reply to: Re: 1942 9n posted by David on July 05, 2018 at 20:56:44:
Read the manuals and documents described in my post above. Where was the old carb leaking? It could have just had stuck float, another reason for a complete rebuild, and not to just replace it with a new one. If you had an original TSX rebuilt carb or a good one from a running tractor to swap out, that would have been the more logical test. Plugs - by "look original" -do you mean the outside or the actual electrode? The original Ford sparkplug spec is the 14mm Champion H10. Since then, Champion came out with a hotter plug, the H12 (512 now) and another brand, the AUTO-LITE 437 (216) Plug is equally good and either one will work. But,for now, just keep this in mind, you will determine the root cause problem before just swapping out plugs and other things. Once you get problem solved, and the problem could indeed turn out to be a long overdue tune-up. Never throw away original parts. As mentioned, I will rebuild your old M/S TSX- carb -my email is open. Next time you drive 60 miles to work on the tractor, you will have done some homework, and have the essential manuals/documents of which to proceed. The written documents are every bit as important as any wrench in your arsenal. Keep in mind that 90% of all non-starting/non-running issues are due to poor/incorrect/cobbled-up wiring jobs regardless if 6V or 12V. Just because you have a 6V battery installed does not mean it is wired correctly. Get the fuel issue resolved first. Engine OFF and COLD, the simple fuel flow test can be performed. Next would be spark, but you will go thru the entire electrical system first and verify it is wired correctly. There's no sense doing a spark test if the wiring is all boogered up. Hope this helps you out so now you have a lot to absorb. One final thought: Is the tractor stored inside or outside?