Re: ford 9n

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on July 11, 2018 at 04:51:59 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: ford 9n posted by David on July 10, 2018 at 21:38:19:

These N's will run on POS ground or NEG ground, so like JMOR said, don't introduce another unknown into the equation right now. The original FORD electrical systems were 6V/POS GRN, used a generator with a cutout, after s/n 12500, (the 8N and after used a voltage regulator), and must have the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit whether still 6V/POS GRN or has had a 12V/NEG GRN switch over job done. A true 12V job will use an alternator, replacing the generator, and removing the cutout/VR altogether. Some fellas just swap out the battery and this will work -12V will spin the starter faster. Also, stop replacing old parts with new until you determine the true root cause(s) of your problem. Let's start with the carb. A simple fuel flow test should have been preformed first. If fuel flow fails, then troubleshooting the problem in the fuel system would be logical, but doesn’t include swapping out carbs. Do you still have the original old one? If so, they are usually my first choice to rebuild as they were meant to be. Many new aftermarket parts sold today are junk out the door. If you need help, I have rebuilt hundreds of these and can do your original –my email is open. Ditto with distributors as well. If your base is cracked where is the crack? If you need another distributor, I have a few all rebuilt and ready to go. You are on the semi-righteous path of problem solving – “…electrical/wiring is nowhere near what it should be”. A new wiring harness is going to help, but only if it is wired correctly. A tune-up kit is also fine, but hold off on that too until more tests are done. How do the plugs look? Wet or dry? When tractor dies, need to check for spark right then. If plugs are fairly new, and wet, just dry off with an electric match/firestarter device and gently brush off carbon with a toothbrush or brass brush, recheck gap, and reuse. Wet plugs means they got fouled. Dry plus could be a no spark issue. Get a copy of Bruce(VA)’s ‘75 Tips For N-Owners’ if not already done. It sounds like you may already have the “WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR” document so using those and the essential owner/operator manuals, you can further diagnose the problems. You will have to determine which system you want to go with -6V or 12V and then proceed from there. While you go thru the entire wiring system, remove the battery, get it tested and replaced if needed, but do not install it until wiring is corrected. Starter shops and auto parts stores can bench test the battery. Leave the new ignition key switch out for now too. I suspect you probably have some sort of 12V switch over job and, like many, are done incorrectly. Before doing anything, sketch out what you have wired now. Visually determine what voltage the battery is first. A 6-Volt battery has Three Cells, a 12V battery has Six Cells if there are no markings on the case. Determine if there is a generator and cutout or an alternator in the circuit. Starter shop can bench test all of those as well. Decide what you want to go with. Take baby steps, it sounds like you are heading in the right direction

Tim Daley(MI)

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