Re: 9n has a Short

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on December 26, 2019 at 04:38:10 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: 9n has a Short posted by Dean on December 22, 2019 at 19:59:32:

Dean-
First the s/n means nothing other than it is a 9N or 2N model so forget about anything else. What is important is it has a 6V battery (but that doesn't mean it is wired for 6V/POS GRN) and it has the front mount distributor. We know it has a generator and cutout too. So let's start over as your original post has conflicting messages, at least the way you wrote it. We are trying to help you diagnose the problems, not beat you up. It also sounds like you are guessing, ďÖremoved the generator and it seems to work fine.Ē Use a root cause problem solving method, avoid guessing. Did you motor test it? Youíre trying to measure voltage and the generator output is in AMPS. Itís a 6V wound generator. You have or should have an AMMETER to show the charging rate. I also asked if the tractor ran before all this, when was the last time it ran, and what did the AMMETER show then? If it hasnít been for a while, even more evidence leaning towards a bad battery. I suspect you do not have a defective generator or cutout so put them back on. If you have a Ďshortí it is most likely in the wiring. You said when you charged the battery overnight (you didn't need to pull it off the tractor unless you had no AC outlet available) and it was dead the next morning that should have been a HUGE clue that the battery was FUBAR. Did you take your battery to get checked like I said? If battery doesnít meet the specific gravity level, it cannot sustain a full charge under load and will not charge the battery. If itís dead it needs to be replaced, no charger is going to fix it. I suggest a good brand 6V AG GRP 1 battery like Interstate, DEKA, or East Penn/Duracell and avoid the bargain house brands. A hydrometer will test for specific gravity but your dealer test machine is more reliable. The next step is to get yourself the correct wiring diagrams and manuals and before connecting the new battery cables, go thru the entire wiring setup before applying power. Donít assume colors are correct, they probably are not the OEM harness as it is, and donít use a test light, set you VOM to continuity. If you have lights you can disconnect them for the time being just to take them out of the equation. Wire everything the way it shows on the diagram and take no shortcuts. Is there a decent OEM-style ignition switch mounted? Once wiring is confirmed to be correct you can connect the battery cables. Your tractor will start, guaranteed, unless you have a problem with the distributor but weíll discuss later if we cross that bridge. Finally, read your essential manuals. The Clymer I&T FO-4 Manual has much technical info. Hereís a page for the cutout circuit testing method:

FORD TRACTOR 9N-10505-B CUTOUT CIRCUIT TEST:


Tim Daley(MI)


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