In Reply to: Re: 1940 9N Electrical system posted by Robert Angney on January 13, 2020 at 10:35:40:
Something isn't wired correctly still and it isn’t due to polarization. Components should NOT be getting red hot. We are assuming you have a 6V generator and not an alternator and a 6V battery. I posted scans of the OEM 9N/2N wiring diagrams so right click and save to your desktop then print out from there for reference. Questions need to be answered: Do you have the 1-Wire/3-Brush generator (A-Circuit) and roundcan cutout? Is there a 3rd Brush adjustment screw on the back plate of the generator? Do you have an OEM-style ignition switch and a fused 2-wire light switch? Can you post pictures? Again, verify all the wiring is correct before applying battery power. You polarize the generator with the cutout. POWER OFF; take your pliers and touch the BAT terminal to the ARM terminal for a second. Don’t assume the guy who rebuilt your genny did it correctly. Motor test via FO-4 Manual. Generators are made with an ‘A’ Circuit or a ‘B’ Circuit design -see LINK to article. It matters how it gets polarized. It can be done internally on the generator but easiest way is with the cutout on a 9N/2N or the VR on an 8N. The wrong method will result in a fried VR. The Clymer I&T FO-4 Manual shows how to test the cutout –see previous post, paragraph 66. Click on the LINK for an article from our HOW-TO’s forum on 9N generators. Disconnect the lights for now to take them out of the equation. Once electrical system is verified correct, then you can start adding in lights.