Re: 1940 9N Electrical system

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on January 14, 2020 at 10:32:30 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Re: 1940 9N Electrical system posted by Robert Angney on January 14, 2020 at 07:31:36:

OK -your generator is the 2N-10000 unit -same as the 9N-1000-C only the 2N has tensioning device built onto the unit hence the two bolt holes. The 2N has a bracket bolted on, the 9N-C has a steel band attached -look close at pix. Belt tension must be maintained and may explain why you don't see any AMMETER reading. Do you have the OEM 30/30 Induction "loop" ammeter or does it have two screw terminals? There are no numbers on the OEM barrel. There will be a STAR symbol and a date code stamp. 3rd brush has to be inspected internally -some guys don't use them but for now can turn all the way to 'LOW' -not your problem though. A "B" stamp on the Cutout designates it is the Battery terminal. Yes, the cover would need to be taken off to test but hold on for now. Get the WIRING correct first. Do you have the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit? BTW the gen/cutout is polarized with NO POWER. Do this: Take battery, cutout, and generator to your trusty starter shop guy. He can bench test the battery and if good recharge it. If bad, you will need a new good brand one -avoid the cheaper ones, they tend to have poor life. The battery is the heart of your tractor. Next he can inspect the inside and tell you if it has the 3rd Brush and if it an "A" Circuit. Then he can test the cutout for you. Most shops will do the work free, at least test the battery for free. If cutout is bad replace with new but not until it tests bad. Meanwhile back at the ranch, go thru the entire wiring system and wire/connect it up correctly, with no shortcuts, and leave the lighting wiring disconnected for now. They don't make teh OEM Tensioning Bracket anymore but you can find them in boneyards or ebay often on a used genny. I have a newly rebuilt 2N unit complete and ready to go if you want to negotiate price and core exchange -send me an email if so. I can also test the gen and cutout if your shop can't. You don't apply power until you are certain all the wiring is correct. Once it gets running as it should be, you can work on your lights.

Tim Daley(MI)

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