Re: Hot battery cable ends

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on May 17, 2020 at 07:00:14 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Hot battery cable ends posted by Tom on May 16, 2020 at 19:27:11:

HiYa Tom-
Kudos on your 9N purchase. Are you using 12V style battery cables? A 6V battery/system requires thicker, heavier gauge cables. OEM battery used a flat, braided ground strap and NEG battery cable should be Ďthick as your thumbí as Bruce(VA) says. You can get the correct, exact as OEM cables at JUST8Nís or Dennis Carpenter. Do you have the Essential Manuals Ė very important tools to have? In them you can get the correct OEM wiring diagrams and parts books to further help troubleshooting. Donít assume just because you have a 6V battery it is wired correctly. We need more info to diagnose your issue but it sounds like wiring isnít correct. So letís get started (pun intended).
ALL 9N (after s/n 12500) & 2N tractors (except the 2N warhorse) used the 1-Wire starter motor and NO solenoid. In addition, the circuit uses the OEM Ballast Resistor; the front-mount distributor; square can 6V coil; push button starter switch; the dash-mounted ignition key switch; the 30/30 AMP loop-style AMMETER; 1-Wire/3-Brush 11 AMP generator; roundcan cutout circuit; and on the 2N generator, a belt tensioning device/bracket. There was a belt tension kit offered for 9N generators when the 2N came out. All early 9Nís had no means to tighten the fan belt. It relied on the single hex bolt that fastened to the mount. Constant fan belt tension is required for proper generator charging. Early 9Nís used a small 7-AMP generator, at first a 2-Wire unit that used a rectangular voltage regulator. Do you have these early ones? Also, the front mount distributor is a bit tricky. It can only be mounted to the engine one correct way as the cam and weights of the unit have an offset male tang. The engine cam has an offset female mating slot. You set the points and timing on your bench a specific way, offset to the tangs and outlined in the manuals. The unit gets mounted with tangs mated correctly. If you get them off 180į and force them down with the two bolts, the second power is applied it will bust the aluminum base and render it junk. The guts can be salvaged but another base will be needed. Get the downloads from our HOW-TO's forum for "75 Tips For N-Owners" by Bruce(VA) and WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" in addition to the other manuals. If you donít have the manuals, see if this helps you identify your electrical system:

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N, AFTER S/N 12500, OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:



WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR; OEM 9N & 2N ELECTRICAL SETUP:


FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT ĖUSED AFTER S/N 12,500 TO S/N 258504 ON 9N & 2N MODELS ONLY:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR Ė WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180į OFF:




FORD 9N-10000-C TRACTOR GENERATOR WITH OPTIOAL BELT TENSIONING BRACKET:


FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:


Tim Daley(MI)


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