Re: New generator stops working on 2n

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on August 07, 2020 at 06:52:34 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Re: New generator stops working on 2n posted by Steve Frysinger on August 06, 2020 at 21:19:52:

You’ve done some good homework but still some unanswered questions abound and making some assumptions and guesses. You say “…it's probably due for a change…”; “…But it might have grown some rust shorts and such…”, “…besides the cutout, where else have y'all found battery drains..; “…I know they are notorious for failing (even new ones) and can drain the battery.” The latter is not true. Where are you getting that from? Yes, you need a current copy of the CLYMER I&T FO-4 Manual –see picture. Early revisions like the one we have in our MANUALS forum have little technical info as does the newer ones have. Next, regarding the AMMETER, you say: “…But since modern replacements are really voltmeters set up to read current, I don't expect different results than my voltmeter shows.” Hmm. Where did you get that from? FORD old wives’ tales/myths? AMPS and VOLTS are two different things. OHMS LAW. Current (I) is measured by AMPS. Volts (E); Resistance is measured in OHMS; Power (P) is measured in WATTS. The 9N/2N generator is rated at 11.5 AMPS, 75 WATTS, and cut-in voltage is 7V (min) and 8.5 V (max). Where are you trying to measure to? Shorts usually occur by cracked or loose wires or just plainly wired wrong. Did you disconnect the lights when tracing wiring? Have you done anything to the distributor? It could be getting a short in it. The coil pigtail connection often will make intermittent contact to the distributor. Take needle nose pliers and stretch it out so when it compresses on the unit it makes a good solid contact. The coil has a single wire. It connects to the LH Terminal Post on the Ballast Resistor as viewed from the back of dash. Once wiring is verified to be correct and power restored to battery (lights still disconnected), proceed with your VOM set to DC VOLTS. Set one probe (it doesn’t matter which one) to the LH Coil post on Resistor. Set the other probe to a spot of metal on the tractor ground. Turn Key Switch “ON” but do not turn over ignition. You should get a reading of battery voltage, 6 VDC with points open, half that with points closed. If no reading, problem may be in distributor. Cross that path later. Other possibilities can be checked too. See the single wire on the generator? Is it connected the cutout ARM (or GEN) terminal? Note the cutout BAT wire. Trace it. It should feed to the central terminal post on the Ballast Resistor. This terminal also feeds one side of the Ignition Switch, and then thru the AMMETER and from there to the Start Switch that connects to the Safety Starter Pushbutton on the shifter housing which is also connected to the NEG battery terminal post. Any of these are also possible.

FYI:

OHM’S LAW
I = CURRENT (AMPS)
R = RESISTANCE (OHMS)
E = VOLTS (V)
P = POWER (WATTS)

E = I x R to find VOLTS
I = E/R to find AMPS
R = E/I to find OHMS
P = I x E to find WATTS


Tim Daley(MI)


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