In Reply to: Sediment bowl and valve assembly question posted by Beth and Allen on January 24, 2021 at 03:27:43:
"It appears to be original (MHV 180 097 MI) is on the valve assembly..." Where is the Sediment Bulb on a valve assembly? Where did you find that number? It's NOT a Ford number -looks like a Massey-Ferguson number to me or possibly just an aftermarket supplier number - means nothing. Ford part numbers would have a 9N, 2N, 8N, or NAA prefix codes but not stamped or cast on the part. The Ford Sediment Bulb Assembly is p/n 2N-9155-B, used on all N's up to '54.
Always use the correct 1/4" steel brake/fuel lines. Dennis Carpenter & Just8Ns make the exact-as-original pre-bent fuel line, NAA-9282-D. Never use copper, nylon, plastic, or aluminum. Brake and fuel lines use a special thread size - 7/16-24 UNS. Many fellas muck them up by using the wrong tap or thread die to "fix" a part with and all it does is cross thread with the wrong pitch which in turn causes leaks. On the Sediment Bulb Assembly, the line connects to the output port. The other end inserts into the brass elbow on the carb. Use a 7/6" Flare Nut Wrench to do the final tightening and do not overtighten.
Often times leaks are the result of the Sediment Bulb Valve Stem. There is a rubber seal, some newer aftermarket units use vinyl, on the stem that will eventually wear out, get torn, and thus leak. The vinyl ones are more prone to early failure. Sometimes leaks are coming from it and misdiagnosed as being a bad connection elsewhere. The valve stem is a $6 part. It is the only wear part on the assembly. You don't need to buy a whole new assembly when repairing them. The stem uses the same size thread into the bulb base as the fuel line. Get a new valve stem and a new cork gasket and brass screen for the jar when doing PM. The stem is p/n APN-9194 and comes with a new knurled knob, 8-32 screw, and #8 star lockwasher. I always put a dab of Loctite on the screw to ensure it never comes off the assembly in the field. You never need to take it off either until the next valve stem replacement. Remove and clean the old cork gasket in the unit and also on the glass bowl. Take a piece of Emery Cloth or fine sandpaper on a flat surface and gently rotate the bowl lip to remove any old cork or varnish.
Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. Never shove anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean.
FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:
The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.
FORD OEM NAA TRACTOR OWNER MANUAL:
CLYMER/I&T FO-19 SHOP REPAIR MANUAL – FORD NAA ’53-’54:
FORD TRACTOR 1939-1953 MPC:
FORD TRACTOR 1953-1959 MASTER PARTS CATALOG:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)