In Reply to: Carb (I think) posted by Rick Douglas on February 26, 2021 at 15:30:27:
You still haven't answered if it is a front or side mount and if 6V or 12V. Plugs are supposed to be dry as Bruce said. Forget "20 hours" on a carb rebuild -what does that mean/prove? FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to mucked up electrical systems regardless if 6V or 12V. Just because your battery is 6V or 12V doesn't mean it is wired correctly for that system. Often electrical issues turn out to be fuel issues and vice versa. ONE STEP AT A TIME. 1) get battery tested at a shop. A weak and/or a dead battery is a major cause of non-starting. Applying a trickle charger will do nothing. If battery is dead and needs replacing, invest in a good brand, not a bargain house one that can be dead out the door. While the shop tests or replaces the battery, leave it on a shelf til fuel, electrical, and wiring are verified. Perform the fuel flow test. How and where did you set the float to and did you install the needle valve correctly with the gasket and was it tight? Do you shut off the Sediment Bulb Valve when you park the tractor? There should be no fuel flowing out the carb throat to air cleaner. Are you seeing fuel or starting fluid? 2) Tune-Up; points set and TIMED correctly? When we know if front mount or side mount we can get into more detail.