Re: Bolt Replacement - Grade?

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on March 05, 2021 at 05:59:20 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Re: Bolt Replacement - Grade? posted by Kimberly on March 04, 2021 at 22:37:02:

Use the bolt lengths listed in the July, 1947 MPC. No misprints. Sizes are correct. FORD engineered bolt and fastener lengths to be so only two threads protruded after secured with nut or bolted in casting. Back in the days bolt lengths were made in fractional sizes. Today still are but only limited. For example - length at 2-1/4" or 2-3/4" no longer exist. It is either 2, 2-2/2, or 3. Use your MPC to see where exactly each specific bolt length goes. Too short and you will strip out the threads of mating part. Too long and you can do same if a blind hole. ID'g each original as you take them out is a good way to speed things up. Believe me you do not want to strip out any cast iron part and make more work than necessary. I always stress to use OEM bolts anyway. Nut and bolt AF (Across Flats) sizes are different today as well, not like the OEM sizes. For example, an 11/16" AF bolt head is now 5/8". A side cover doesn't get much use and shouldn't require wear and tear to be replaced as it is. 11/16 is a popular size on the tractor and implements because that is how Ferguson envisioned it when he designed the Plow Wrench beginning with the 1936 Ferguson-Brown Type A Tractor. He wanted them to be only two sizes, 1-1/16" and 11/16" so the plow wrench fit those two sizes. FORD came along in 1938 and they kept the wrench, ID'd it as 9N-17014, but couldn't make all the nuts and bolts only two sizes, but many were.

If OEM bolt is fully threaded, find exact replacement. Using a shoulder bolt may also cause mating part to strip if shoulder bottoms out at the top of hole. Bolt lengths are measured from end to the back of head, not the complete bolt to top of head. Measure the desired length fully around the bolt threads with a Sharpie.

1) Always fasten a nut onto the bolt you need to cut down first. This will help roll over the burr at the end of fresh cut.

2) If you don't have a bench grinder to grind down end of bolt while holding onto with vice grips, take the bolt with nut fastened onto and clamp it in a vice. Take a hack saw or rubber wheel and cut where marked. Take new bolt as cut and manually roll the end over that was cut with your grinder. If none available, leave clamped in vise and manually file the edge over on a 45 angle to decrease burr. Once most of the burr is removed, take the nut you fastened and unscrew it off and on the bolt a few times. This makes it so it'll screw in and/or accept a nut without interference. A bolt that has a burr will not screw into mating part and usually just boogers up the part.

Tim Daley(MI)

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