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Subject: MS Carburetor

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James    Posted 02-07-2022 at 09:41:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • MS Carburetor
  • I recently bought a 1951 8n for a future project and the brass tag with the carb number is pretty beat up and the only numbers that are legible are the last two digits 39. I looked on a website that had every MS carb number for Ford but did not see one ending in 39. I think the kit for the TSX-241 will work. My 49 uses that one and the carburetors appear almost identical. The only difference I can see is the '49 has a tiny drain plug on bowl next to the main needle. Any thoughts?

    James    Posted 02-07-2022 at 19:51:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • Thanks for the replies.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 02-07-2022 at 18:33:08 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • FORD TRACTOR used the Marvel-Schebler TSX model carbs on all Nís and Hundred Series models. The TSX 33 was used from í39 thru í48. Then in mid í48 a newer unit was developed as Model TSX 241. Either could be used on a 9N, 2N, or an 8N. The early TSX 33 unit had the model number in a cast recessed boss on the lower half. The later models were changed to a brass ID Date Code Tag. It had the model number and a date code of when the unit was manufactured at M/S. Thus in the picture, the date code of the TSX 241 is 4 51, for April, 1951. Now, there is another brand, the ZENITH carb, which will work fine as well. Nowadays there are many cheap, aftermarket, cloned carbs sold that are all made in Cheena and are usually junk. Donít expect them to work out of the box. Rebuilding the OEM parts is always the best method R&Rí ing these old Fords Ėthat is what they were designed to do. The best carb kit to get is the TISCO C546V as shown for the N-Series. ALL parts will work on a TSX 33 and a TSX 241. The 241 changed the Main Needle Jet and the Idle Adjust Screw on the carb for two major changes and the kit now only has the new style. Just8Ns and Dennis Carpenter sell them. Might want to look closer at your ID tag. The only other unit used on Ford Nís was the TSX 38 Carb. It was made for the 2N WarHorse and Industrial Models only and is virtually the same as the TSX 33 except it had a double throw choke lever. Hope this info helps clarify things.


    LEFT TSX 33, RIGHT TSX 241





    Tim Daley(MI)

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 02-09-2022 at 15:01:08 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • One issue I have is with new replacement floats. They seem to be slightly fatter than the originals and when I installed them in my 9N TSX33 they dragged a bit in the inner bowl. This interfered often with closing the needle valve and flooding the unit. I discovered this as there was a small shinny spot on the inner float surface. I fixed it finally by squeezing the float lightly with a pair of channel lock pliers.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 02-11-2022 at 07:00:35 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • HiYa Steve-
    Yep, plastic Venturis suk too. I wonít use those cheap Cheena junkers. I learned a long time ago to always use the OEM parts whenever possible. I have saved coffee cans with old M/S carb parts Ė one for OEM floats, throttle plates, choke plates, hardware and more. Plates get cleaned and polished to a shiny brass finish and I take the edges and remove the burrs. I also have several OEM Main Needle Seats and have reused many times. I sharpen the point and polish and they work fine. New needles are now made with a Viton tip that makes them a harder substance. Thatís fine but I try to avoid those newer needles that have the two piece designs Ė why reinvent the wheel? Why add more parts that guys have a hard time figuring out they mount? The little clip hooks to the float and loops around the needle. I would cringe when a guy brought me a cloned Chi-Comm unit to work on. Thatís when I found that the Zeno-Marv (thatís what I call them) cloned Cheena units are junk. These are Zenith and Marvel units that have been cloned from clones. You can tell a clone just by a glance. The paddle boss looks funny and has no Date Code tag like the M/Sís. The four 12-24 Filibuster screws that fasten the two carb halves together have Phillips head/cross recessed screw heads AND they are usually Metric. I once thought Iíd try a carb kit sold on ebay and what I got was also junk. Unmarked, unknown make, it had metal choke and throttle plates, not brass, and the small screws that secured those plates was also steel and Metric. That is why I only buy the TISCO CARB KITS now. Get the complete/major kit, C546V kit, not the cheaper kit that doesnít have, many parts. The OEM Marvel-Schebler or an original Zenith carb is the way to go when rebuilding. But you knew that alreadyÖ

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Steve Dabrowski    Posted 02-11-2022 at 19:02:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • Like you I try to stick with OEM parts for everything. Unfortunately the old floats often have brass rot where the metal has just dissolved over time in spots causing them to fill up. I have saved one by using some fuel tank epoxy on the visible holes, but it only lasted for a couple of years before coming off. One might try to solder them, but I worry that will destroy some of the joint solder.

    I also seem to have poor luck with needle valves leaking-I prefer original fully steel ones, but most have rubber tips. I would not buy an new carb for anything.

    Ed Gooding (VA)    Posted 02-07-2022 at 15:27:12 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: MS Carburetor
  • The link below is to an article in our How-To's/Fuel System library. It may help you ID your carb.

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