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Subject: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking

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Daniel Romans    Posted 08-02-2022 at 18:24:04 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • Does anybody know a good fix for a leaking 3 point hitch pin that has some lateral movement? I'm thinking an oversize pin and a reamer. Both sides leak. Thanks.

    Daniel Romans    Posted 08-05-2022 at 15:41:01 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • Thanks for all the helpful replies. I have yet to remove my axle housings and want to gather as much info as possible before I tackle the job. I was hoping there was some aftermarket upgrade that improved on the pin design such as a tapered pin like the 8n's use. A local mechanic suggested I use JB Weld upon assembly and it should work fine. Ford's part number for the loose pin is 563, just to be sure we're all on the same page. So, has anybody used JB Weld to take up the slop and seal the pin from leaking oil? Thanks all.

    Bruce(OR)    Posted 08-07-2022 at 01:08:02 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • JB is a soft epoxy. A harder epoxy, a much harder epoxy would be Marine Tex. Designed to be used on boat hulls and dries hard as concrete. If you use Marine Tex or similar boar hull repair epoxy, Be aware that it will dry hard as a brick and be very difficult to sand off. Those pins are also subjected to the implement attached to them and will wobble around if not repaired correctly. Marine Tex might hold up just fine but no guarantees.

    Farmer Brown    Posted 08-06-2022 at 04:02:58 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • I would NOT put anything on it. As the tapered stud is torgued to specs, it is pulled in tightly and should not leak. If it was allowed to bang around loose for many years, the whole may have become egg shaped.

    Farmer Brown    Posted 08-04-2022 at 17:36:59 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • When I removed the PTO shaft to replace the seal, I was also able to also fix a severely leaking and loose lift arm shaft. I did it by putting my arm in the large hole on the differential where the PTO shaft came out from. Using a long box wrench to hold the inside nut for the lift arm and had a helper tighten the outside nut with a breaker bar. There was no cotter pin on the inside castle nut on mine which likely allowed the shaft to loosen over time.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 08-04-2022 at 15:22:44 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • NO, I advise not to "ream" it larger and butcher it up. Do the job right if you are going to attempt the project -see post below. Don't become a hackmaster. Get the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read the MPC's and diagrams so you know.


    Tim Daley(MI)

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 08-04-2022 at 11:45:21 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • Do you mean where the lift arm is connected to the diffy case? There are no seals there if so. The arms are attached via a special shaft, p/n 9N-563 which has a tapered length inside the housing hole. The 563 pin is sealed by the taper on it. You sometimes have to get in there to tighten it up and it is a bear of a project. The inside of the shaft is threaded for a castle nut, washer, and cotter pin set up. Often the project involves removing the axle trumpet to get access. You sometimes can get lucky if your hands are small enough to reach inside thru the side inspection cover, and get to the nut but only on the right side. I forget, Maybe it is the LH side that you can get to both sides. A stub handle wrench is needed to tighten the nut while holding the outside nut with another wrench, but then that limits you on gaining enough stroke to apply torque. If you are really lucky, you can try a socket and force it over the nut by breaking the cotter pin. Even if you get lucky, you still have to remove the left axle trumpet to get to that side so if you want to do both sides, I'd suggest removing both axle trumpets. Then, with the trumpets off, Id do a gasket job while they're off.
    Maybe I am missing your question, but if the lift arms are leaking that bad -a gallon every few months seems serious to me, then Id look into performing this task. Letting it go with heavy use may result in wallowing out the tapered hole and then you may need new trumpets. You may also look into the gaskets behind the inspection covers and the main drains underneath. You have two -one large one with the gasket and a small pipe plug back under the diffy case but no gasket there. The N's also were notorious for axle seals failing and oil getting on brakes. Often you see evidence of oil leaking down there as well. Pictures tell a better story so if you can post, we'll all be on the same page. If you can't post, email me them and I will post. Be sure they are in digital jpeg format...



    *NOTE: SEE PART No. 21



    Tim Daley(MI)

    Bruce(OR)    Posted 08-02-2022 at 19:16:50 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: 3 point hitch pin loose and leaking
  • I'm thinking a new pin and maybe a washer or two, with some RTV or maybe even some shaft sealant.
    Or you can come to my house and get another rear end.

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