6v 9n starter will turn engine oner slowly about four times then stop. Try again and dash mounted starter button will get hot and voltage starts dropping till i let off the button. Removed starter and used jumper cables to energize and it spins fine. cleaned electrical and frame connections, swapped starter button, used a screw driver to make sure flywheel was not binding while starter was out. Battery in very good shape. Short in starter while under load? any other thoughts before i send in for rebuild or replace.

Before you start (pun intended) yanking of things and replacing with new, you say "...Battery in very good shape..." Do you mean it looks pretty cosmetically or have you tested it ay a local shop on their test machine? Sounds to me like a weak/dead battery. Simply connecting a trickle charger won't do a darn thing if battery is dead.

checked battery by installing in another another N. No issue starting.

Using another battery is not the best scientific method to test a battery with, unless it was tested on a machine. Getting it verified on a test machine under load for specific gravity is. I agree that it is most likely a wiring issue. Just because you have a 6V battery does not mean your wiring is set up for the 6V/POS GRN system. The 9N starter used 1-wire and did not use a relay (Solenoid). The 9N used a 1-wire/3-brush 11 amp generator with the roundcan cutout. The generator or alternator if 12V, must have a fan belt tensioning device otherwise your system will never charge the battery. The circuit also uses the Ballast Resistor. Here are Pictograms by JMOR and other documents for the correct 9N/2N wiring 6V setup. All 9N & 2N wiring was the same after s/n 9N-12500.

9N/2N WIRING AFTER S/N 9N-12500:

9N/2N 1-WIRE STARTER MOTOR - NO SOLENOID USED:

9N-10000-C GENERATOR w/FAN BELT TENSIONER KIT:

9N-10505-B CUTOUT:

9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

I don't think I can get a tensioner on a 9n10000b generator. The battery is fine, a fairly recent deka that has no problem starting my 8n. I have reworked the older 3w voltage regulator to work as a cutout for this generator. Cable from starter to dash mounted button would be last suspect. Copper cable with copper crimped eyelets. I can't remove any wire or it would be too short so the eyes could be split and removed. the wire could then be cleaned, eyes replaced and recrimped.

If it cranks properly with jumpers the motor is fine. Sounds like you have wiring issues.

TOH

also tried jumper cables directly to starter( - to stud, + to frame) while installed. Just threw sparks and no movement.( orginal test with jumpers was with starter out)

I misunderstood - thought your first test was on the tractor.

TOH

open it up. armature might look like this

wire brushed all the connecting bolts/washers from engine to transmisson to top cover to dash to verify thru frame conductivity. Still didnt help though..If I pull the armature out what is the best way to hold the brushes back to reinstall?

Folks have come up with various ways to hold the brushes in. This guy used a hose clamp:

Before you start taking things apart try jumping straight to the starter while its on the tractor.

• His previous response to you