Posted 04-06-2023 at 13:07:21 [URL] [DELETE]
[Reply] [No Email] |
Re: New to the scene
OK, confirmed you have the front mount distributor and a 12V battery but is the wiring correct for a 12V conversion? Is the original 6V generator and voltage regulator removed and an alternator replaced, either a 1-wire or 3-wire? The front mount also needs the original Ballast Resistor in the coil circuit regardless if 6V or 12V is used. You also will need an external in-line 1-OHM resistor in the coil circuit if using the original 6V Coil. Eliminate the extra ceramic 1-OHM resistor by switching the coil to a verified 12V coil. The other wiring needs to remain the same as the 6V; the 3-Wire Starter Motor with the RELAY (Solenoid); AMMETER; NEUTRAL SAFETY START PUSHBUTTON, IGNITION KEY SWITCH; and all wired correctly. Lighting kits were optional accessories. Regardless whether you use a Generator or an Alternator, you must have a fan belt tensioner device attached otherwise you will never charge the battery. The original 8N and up generators all had a belt tensioner but 12V conversion kits are not all the same. Some have a tensioner and some don't. 12V conversions can use the original AMMETER (preferred) or switch out to a VOLTMETER. It is also important to have the original manuals too so you know not only the 6V wiring setup but all the other major systems as well.
8N WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR, 6V & THE 12V CONVERSION:
8N w/SIDE MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR USING A 6V COIL, NOTE INLINE 1-OHM RESISTOR:
ORIGINAL 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR, USED ONLY WITH THE FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
8N & UP 3-WIRE STARTER MOTOR w/RELAY:
DELCO 10SI 3-WIRE ALTERNATOR WIRING:
Front Mount Distributor Specs:
Breaker Point Gap = .015
Spark Plug Gap = .025-.028
Spark Plug = 14mm Champion H10, H12, or AUTO-LITE 437, some use NTK.
Firing Order = 1, 2, 4, 3 CCW