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Subject: 1952 8n quit running all of a sudden-12 volt side dist

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Jim Menke    Posted 07-21-2023 at 14:21:41 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • 1952 8n quit running all of a sudden-12 volt side dist
  • Starated my 8n this morning to go move a tree limb. started right up. Drove 50 yds and got off. It then quit. I checked fuel flow it is good. I have voltage to the top of the coil. I am not getting any voltage down to where the coil connects to the dist.
    I visually saw the points opening and closing. I used a test light on the dist and the light did not come on and off as the points opened. I changed out the condenser at a suggestion from the group on face book.it was not the cause. I am thinking now that I should take the coil off, which is an internal resistor, and ohm it out. Wanted to get your guys thoughts. Thanks!

    Jim Menke    Posted 07-21-2023 at 18:07:07 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1952 8n quit running all of a sudden-12 volt side dist
  • Solved the problem. It was a bad coil. Watched a youtube video that showed how to check it and that was the problem. Got replacement at Napa and she started right up!

    Bruce(VA)    Posted 07-21-2023 at 15:42:29 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: 1952 8n quit running all of a sudden-12 volt side dist
  • Are you using a 12 volt coil or a 6v coil w/ a resistor? (see tip # 30) ( a 12v side coil will have 3 to 3.25 ohms of internal resistance) You do not need to remove the coil to check the internal resistance. But more to the point......it's highly unlikely that you have a coil problem.

    Confirm that you have voltage to the coil. Battery voltage, points open. About half that if the points are closed.

    Battery voltage means 12.65 volts on a 12v system and 6.35 volts on a 6 volt system. A light will not tell you that. Get a meter. The number 1 cause of no spark or a weak spark is a weak battery.

    Do you have battery voltage across the points when they are open? (with the points open, put one probe on one side of the points & the other probe on the opposite side of the points) Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, dress the points by running a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. (I always spray my feeler gauge blade off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.

    If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Insure that the rotor fits firmly on the shaft & that the little clip is there. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked, doesn’t have gouges in it from the rotor or brass shavings & doesn't have carbon tracks. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. Next, remove the secondary coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, turn the key on & crank the engine while holding the end of the wire 1/4" from a rust & paint free spot on the engine. You should see & hear a nice blue/white spark. If not, you have a bad coil or condenser. Just put the old condenser back in to eliminate that as a possibility

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