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Subject: Checking charging system

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AL CT    Posted 09-24-2017 at 10:28:25 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Checking charging system
  • I have a 1944 2N all original equipment. 6 volt, front distributor, etc.
    My amp gauge always shows on the negative side. Generator has the cutout on the top of the generator. I used a volt meter and while running checked the battery. The volt meter jumps all over the scope, 0 to 12 volts. Strange....I've done this before and seem to remember that 6.7 volts is the desired generator output.
    My question to all: what is the best way to check all generating components while running??? Cut out maybe? Using my meter, how do I check the generator to see if it's functioning correctly?
    Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 09-24-2017 at 13:21:15 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Checking charging system
  • First, glad to see you kept your '44 at 6-volts. Next, no Ford N-Series Tractor had a generator with the cutout mounted on the barrel. The cutout was always mounted behind the dash. So, based on what you said, you have the wrong generator, probably from one of the car/truck modules such as the early V8 style as pictured below, and could be part of your problem. Your '44 2N would have used the 2N-10000-C generator. The unit is a 1-wire/3-Brush type, with the 3rd brush adjusting screw terminal on the rear end plate. It would also have the 2N tensioning bracket mounted directly on the barrel. It is basically the same as the 9N-10000-C generator only the 9N generator did not have the tensioning bracket mounted -it was a wrap-around band unit that came in a kit. All else was identical to the 2N style. The specs on both are: 11.5 AMPS output at 1200 RPM; CUT-IN VOLTAGE: MIN = 7.0 V, MAX = 8.5 V. If you are using a digital Multi-Meter, you will not get accurate readings due to field noise if checking while engine is running. Battery voltage needs to be checked static, that means under no use, engine off, lights off, everything off. Then a digital Volt/Ohm Meter will work fine. A negative reading on the AMP gauge indicates the wiring to the screw terminals on the back of it are reversed. Simply switch them around as there is no polarity involved with this application. If you have an original induction "LOOP-STYLE" ammeter, simply remove the wire feeding thru the loop and reverse it the opposite direction it is now. If interested, I just finished restoring a 2N-10000-C generator complete with the tensioning bracket, all the correct pieces included. My email is open.




    Tim Daley(MI)

    AL CT    Posted 09-24-2017 at 15:15:17 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Email sent
  • Email sent.

    Dave Smith    Posted 09-24-2017 at 12:06:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Checking charging system
  • A good 6Volt battery will have 6.3 volts at rest. A good 12 volt battery will have 12.6 volts at rest. At rest means when the battery has not been used for a while not right after shutting it down. Cheap digital volt meters will not give a good reading on a running engine. I use a old Simpson 260 analog meter. (top of the line in its day) A good digital is very expensive (Fluke is a top line digital meter).
    Dave <*)))><

    steveVa    Posted 09-24-2017 at 11:36:48 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Checking charging system
  • I have an old analog radio shack meter that works great for checking old 6 volt systems. Battery shows 6 volts plus a little with engine off and 7 volts with engine running. I also have an old sears "Automotive Analyzer" that works great. It has a switch to go between 4, 6, or 8 cyl. And will give you volts, amps and rpm. Also dwell, point resistance, and an alternater diode test.
    Yard sales are a great place to find good old meters.

    Joe in Texas    Posted 09-24-2017 at 10:51:03 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Checking charging system
  • This has been discussed many times, but I'll tell you how I do a simple, but most of the time, effective, test of the whole charging system. I take a good voltmeter, I use Fluke meters, but a good analog meter with a real needle will do. You don't need a lot a accuracy for what I do here.

    Check the voltage of the battery with the tractor at rest, not running and the key off. A good six volt battery will show something around that six volts or maybe a little more. Then start the tractor and idle it up just a bit, doesn't have to be a lot, and check the voltage at the battery with it running. If things are normal you will get a higher reading, it just needs to be more than the at rest reading. This can vary greatly, depending on the initial state of charge on the battery. On my 8N (1950 side mount dist) I see about 6.2 or so vs almost 7.0 volts running at idle. As the battery reaches a full charge while running the voltage will drop some, but usually not below a little over 6 volts.

    It has been said you can't use a digital meter but I have not had any problems with a good one. The HF meters they give away are free and worth every cent in my opinion. A good meter will last a lifetime and be well worth it in the long run.

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