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Subject: Pant & Rust Remover

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Mike    Posted 05-15-2018 at 06:11:57 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Pant & Rust Remover
  • Just thought I'd post my observations/experience removing rust / paint in restoring my 58 861. I used electrolisis, cider vinegar & molasses and paint stripper with lye (PSwLye-EasyOff) to remove paint and rust from various pieces and parts.

    The vinegar/molasses (10:1) solution worked best as removed rust and loosened paint most effectively. It takes longer and is less practicable as it requires a tank but produced the cleanest results. PSwLye was not nearly as effective removing paint from small parts and sheet metal and has little rust removing ability. Electrolysis wasn't effective on paint. It removed rust well but created a coat/film on the surface of the work piece that was difficult to remove.

    EasyOFF (PSwLye) worked best on the engine transmission, axles etc. but required a couple of passes. It doesn't remove rust and is obviously caustic and thus harder to work with.

    36 coupe    Posted 05-15-2018 at 18:57:39 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • Vodka works pretty fast.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 05-15-2018 at 11:40:09 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • Interesting. What is the purpose of molasses? I've never heard of using it as a paint/dirt/rust remover. It's not very caustic is it? I use white vinegar to remove as it removes all that crud but it takes a while to work. Best to soak parts for weeks to be fully effective. Another plus is it isn't abrasive like media/sand/bead blasting is so if you want to preserve the natural patina, that is the choice. I use it exclusively on restoring antique tools and small original tractor parts like check chains, linch pins, tabs, nuts, and bolts. best to put in a plastic, not metal, coffee can and put a lid on it as it will evaporate otherwise. Large parts require something like a big plastic kiddie pool. The downside is white vinegar costs about $4-$5 per gallon. I would think electrolysis would work good and faster than vinegar, but I have never tried it yet. I've tried oven cleaner, that purple stuff, engine bright, and naval jelly. Naval jelly worked good but all of those products aren't cheap either. I've also found it is best to remove most of the external caked on grease and dirt first with basic mineral sprits, kerosene, ATF, or diesel fuel and some elbow grease. Gasoline too will remove paint.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Mike    Posted 05-15-2018 at 15:54:22 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • I don't know, chemically, what the molasis adds. Its a sugar. It works well though. Even the old fender bolts cleaned up nice.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 05-15-2018 at 16:01:25 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • It'd be interesting to see what molasses does just by itself...

    Tim Daley(MI)

    K.LaRue-VA    Posted 05-15-2018 at 11:26:11 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • My preference is to use the most basic manual paint/grime removal methods on large parts. Start with a power wash, then scrape, sand, wire brush, or whatever works best. The chemical products don’t seem to make this process enough easier to be worth dealing with the toxic waste issues. I don’t want to have to wear a rubber suit. If I ever did a full “restoration”, my choice would be to have large parts media-blasted.
    My working tractor projects are not being “restored”, so I see absolutely no need to remove “all” paint. Any paint stuck good enough to survive the methods I use, will be roughed-up, feathered and can serve as a base for the new primer coat. I have yet to see any paint compatibility problems from doing that. These are tractors, I'm not looking for a show-car finish. I envy the people who have the time/patience/equipment to turn out a show-car finish, but I’d be afraid to actually use a machine that looked too nice.
    For small parts, electrolysis is the lazy (non-toxic) solution that works best for me. If your electrolysis tank created a coating or plating, you may have used something other than steel as sacrificial metal, or something else contaminated the tank. My electrolysis tank has been in operation for something like 12 years without being dumped. It is normally kept covered, so I only have to add water to replace what evaporates while the tank is in use. The washing soda that was put in the tank 12 years ago must still be in there, I've never added any. I’ve occasionally seen some “plating” from copper or other metals or alloys that became sacrificial. Other than that, the only coating I've seen is a black iron oxide on areas that were rusty. The loose oxide easily comes off when I wash the parts.

    This was after an overnight stay in "the tank". In this case, all the paint bubbled off. That is not normal, usually some paint will survive electrolysis. This photo was taken after about 2 minutes with a bristle brush and clean water rinse. Areas that were rusty now have a dark oxide finish. For my purposes, there is no need to do anything more with this part than a little body work, rough-up the surface, degrease, and shoot the primer coat.

    Mike    Posted 05-15-2018 at 15:50:13 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • I think the dark oxide finish is Fe04 which is formed during the process. I used the cider vinegar molasis bath for small parts and had the fenders, hood metal and wheel hubs blasted. Everything else gets oven cleaner, wash and a spray of phosporich acid ($10 HOme Depot). Then a wipe, dry and prime.

    Its more than I intended but I figured I would take the time while the tractor is down. Once done it'll be back to its current duty of brush hogging and a bit of cultivation.

    steveVa    Posted 05-15-2018 at 10:48:52 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • What ever happened to good old navel jelly.? I used it on an old mgb many years ago and it seemed to work well. Good to knowvabout vinigar and molassas.

    Frank (WNY)    Posted 05-15-2018 at 07:38:12 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • Would white vinegar work as well? Also wondering how well the molasses dissolves in the vinegar.

    mike    Posted 05-15-2018 at 15:56:36 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • I would assume so but don't know for sure. I've hand my hand in the tub fishing out parts and it seems to have all dissolved. There's no gunk on the bottom of the tub.

    Tony C.    Posted 05-15-2018 at 09:27:05 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • Best to use the high test (20% & 30%IIRC) acetic acid/vinegar which is used as a pesticide/herbacide. Be careful handling it. It's potent. You can get it from most garden supplies or AMAZON. About $22/gallon.

    Works great on rust. Strip any paint and degrease. Let it soak. Nuetralize and buff with a wire wheel. I cleaned the rust off some pretty knarly tools with the solution. Same for electrolysis.


    Mike    Posted 05-15-2018 at 15:58:23 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Pant & Rust Remover
  • The molasses cost $10 gal. at Tractor Supply. The vinegar was 5%, $1 gal at Farm & Fleet.

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