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Subject: Chisler

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Dan    Posted 09-07-2018 at 17:30:30 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Chisler
  • Got yet another 8n and had a few questions .mainly been using it the tank was full of rust washed it out a bit and filtered the new gas i put in it threw several coffee filters . Hosed out the carb with the garden hose . stuck some new plugs in it and now it runs pretty good with out taking the 20 minute breaks it took . Still pretty tough to start .pressure washed it and that caused the radiator to leak out all its fluid . bought a new radiator its in the mail . filled the old one and now the water is staying in for some unknown reason . tried to move the lift shaft control nut and the nut promptly fell off . it was half rusted off any way i didn't apply hardly any pressure . Question One got a new shaft coming in the mail ...Do i have to take the lid off or can i finesse the shaft back in threw the 4 bolt plate on the side where it goes in ? 2nd question When shaking the tractor back and forth to shake up the gas in the carb I noticed all the wheels have way too much side play . Got new bushings coming in via the mail that is pretty basic , But wondering about how to tighten up the back wheels . Are the bearings just loose and the big nut needs to go in to take up the slack ? any one know about that issue would appreciate some info on that loose back wheel issue . Thanks in advance

    JMOR    Posted 09-08-2018 at 02:31:07 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Chisler
  • 517 can only be removed from inside the lift cover. Loose rear wheels will most likely be due to hub/axle splines being worn and replacement of hub and possibly axle will be cure. Tightening the axle nut will only help if the washer behind nut is applying force to hub and not to axle end. Excess wear will mean axle extends beyond hub & therefore can't tighten hub to axle.

    Jeff Walker    Posted 09-08-2018 at 22:21:25 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Chisler
  • JMOR is correct, if the axle nut is tight and the rear wheel still wobbles then the
    axle and hub are worn and will get worse with use , the seal will eventually start
    leaking. Replacing the axle, seal and hub is pretty easy but costly. Here is a remedy that will work if you keep the axle nut tight: Cut metal shims out of an old lighter fluid can, strips should be 3/16" X 3". Remove the hub, put a little bearing grease
    in the bottom furrow of the axle spline, place a shim the each furrow and replace
    the hub, tighten axle nut and check it periodically after use for tightness.

    Dan    Posted 09-08-2018 at 10:45:53 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Chisler
  • Thanks for the response Now i know what is ahead .On this my birthday I am in deep morning My allis chalmers mod M crawler rare engine side panels sent from New York to Portland Or .One has not made the trip . They are about non existent took 5 years to find a pair and these were mint not one dent . I have said my prayers and hope all that read this will join me in prayer that it will turn up . I really appreciate this site and all the free help that has come to me Bless all of you that are saving N ford tractors .One more question on the main subject . How much of an issue are the loose back wheels ? they do not leak any fluids I don't do a lot of work with the tractors but they do work for my small 5 acre farm .no hard plowing .

    JMOR    Posted 09-08-2018 at 14:11:26 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: Chisler
  • I have run worn out hubs for years. Someday the splines will get so bad that wheel will not turn with axle, or seal will give up & leak.

    Dan    Posted 09-09-2018 at 10:10:28 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • loose rear wheels
  • Good news the last owner was not smart enough to tighten the axle nuts . That was the the only problem they were hand loose and turned in about 3 more turns now they are fairly tight sloop gone . Glad i dogged that bullet . yesterday when it would not start i ended up fixing up 3 different shribler iron carbs . As usual the ones that had a new rubber tipped float valve just filled with gas . i don,t know how many times i must learn that lesson . every time i did a rebuild and the carb would not work i ended up putting the steel float valve back in then it would work .The one yesterday i rebuilt meant removing the mud wasp nest and pressure washing the red mud out of it and running a thin wire threw the small passages . all the sickening new pot metal new ones have never worked rite . as soon as i put on a real iron schribbler the thing would work .

    steve19438    Posted 09-08-2018 at 06:49:50 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: Chisler
  • change that C to an S and it would be mothers maiden name.

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