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Subject: cold weather

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David    Posted 12-29-2018 at 13:05:55 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • cold weather
  • Do these tractor's get a bit finicky to start in cold weather?
    I have a 52 8n with a 12 volt system and starts up real good when the weather is warmer but not so when its cold even choked
    I try and start it but I don't crank on it for fear of flooding it
    I did put staybil in the gas could that be causing the reluctance to start
    it is covered in a shed but has no heat should I try putting heat in there and see if she goes

    Jim.UT    Posted 12-30-2018 at 12:11:22 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • Each tractor seems to have its own personality and therefore its own preferred method of starting. My old 850 (I learned after much trial and error) liked to have the throttle lever at about 1/2 way and little intermittent tugs on the choke knob.

    One thing you can do to help is push the clutch in. Even with the transmission in neutral, the mainshaft will be turning in that cold, thick trans oil if you don't. That's just increased drag on the starter motor. I used to keep the clutch depressed until the engine had been idling for at least a couple of minutes, then I'd let it up slowly. You could hear the engine respond to the increased load when the clutch was let up. Then I'd let it idle a few more minutes to get the trans oil warmed up a little before starting out.

    Tim Daley(MI)    Posted 12-30-2018 at 06:50:20 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • Cold temps can affect a battery, voltage doesn't matter -6V or 12V. What condition is the battery in? I don't mean how new, or if it was recently 'charged'. I mean, is it a good reliable brand, not some cheap wally world cloned wanna-be? New cheap ones can be junk before you get out the door. The power source, the battery, is the single most important component in any electrical system. Invest in a good, reliable brand like DEKA, INTERSTATE, EXIDE, or DURACELL. Then invest in a good float charger, NOT any trickle charger -there is a difference. Many of us use the Battery Tender brand. Keep it on the battery when tractor is idle for weeks on end. The thing that depletes battery life the quickest is the constant discharging and recharging. You can put your charger on a battery for a week and if it has a dead cell and/or fails to sustain a full charge, won't do any good. Have your trusty local starter/alternator shop bench test the battery. Poor/incorrect wiring is usually the major cause of non-starting issues. Start here: battery test, wiring verification, spark test, and distributor tune-up.

    Words of Wisdom - Bruce(VA) Sez...

    You need a good battery to:

    1. Spin the starter
    2. Engage the Starter Motor Bendix
    3. Provide voltage to the coil.

    As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark.
    The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.

    Tim Daley(MI)

    Rustyal    Posted 12-29-2018 at 23:36:45 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • They seem to turn over a little slower in the cold.

    Dean    Posted 12-29-2018 at 16:09:59 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • All IC engines are more difficult to start in cold ambient. Vintage Ford tractor engines are no exceptions.

    That said, vintage Ford tractor engines, 6V or 12V, will start reliably in temperatures below 0 degrees F IF things are right.

    Things right include ignition, compression, fuel/carburetion, starting system, AND technique.

    Many folks do not use correct technique. Vintage gasoline engines are easily flooded by improper technique, especially if equipped with manual choke. Once flooded with modern gasoline it is much more difficult to start such engines in cold ambient unless you remove and sandblast or replace the plugs. Be CERTAIN that summer formula gasoline is in the tank AND carburetor when attempting to start in cold ambient. Hold the clutch down and choke sparingly. If it does not fire off quickly, a brief spurt of starting fluid in the AC inlet will likely help if not already flooded. Keep your hand on the choke knob when cranking as you will need to "feather" the choke after starting to prevent lean stall. Do not release the clutch until the engine has stabilized and keep your hand on the choke know when you do.

    Of course, cold starting is much more difficult if your engine is badly worn and compression is marginal.

    Dean

    Ultradog MN    Posted 12-29-2018 at 13:47:17 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • The air fuel mixture in the cylinders is less volatile when it's cold. Increasing the fuel to air ratio compensates for the loss of volatility.
    Use more choke.
    Each engine is a bit different when it comes to starting. You have to learn what your engine likes as far as how much choke to give it. If it isn't starting or at least firing in a couple revs with full choke give it a couple more revs.
    Remember also that your spark must be in tip top shape. Check it with a spark plug tester or an old plug that the gap has been widened to about 1/4". In a no start/ slow start situation never assume your spark is good. Always Verify!

    Jack - Iowa    Posted 12-29-2018 at 13:41:32 [URL] [DELETE]        [Reply] [No Email]  
  • Re: cold weather
  • Typically they require very little choke. Both my 2N and my 860 I hold the choke out for no more than two revolutions. Generally just "flip" it out and back. Both are in sheds but no heat. SE Iowa

    I never use Staybil as gasoline will easily hold one winter. If you read the instructions on the Staybil container it will tell you to drain the gasoline after a period of time. I believe it is one year.

    I have ran gasoline which was 5 or 6 years old but that is not advised.

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