Having starting problem and I am suspicious of the coil not putting out enough juice.
Out of circuit getting only 2 ohms from the bottom spring contact and the top terminal.
Can anyone tell me the resistance read on a brand new coil for comparison ?

6V or 12V setup? Don't be sure you have a coil issue yet. You can Static Test the Front Mount Coil with your VOM set OHMS. Place one probe on Pigtail of Coil, other lead on the top Terminal Post, polarity doesn't matter. 6V Coil should read abut 1.5 OHMS as shown. A 12V Coil should read approximately double that. You may have a 12V Coil but that's no problem. This isn't a 100% foolproof method to determine if the coil is good or bad though.

There's more to electrical circuit; starting/ignition/charging than looking at the coil. Bruce (VA) is the in-house electrical guru here and has all the info on wiring and testing each with excellent in-depth explanations for each. Copy and paste his info to your PC Folder for reference. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. Verify your system is wired correctly before trying any testing of circuit. Front Mount Distributor is the #1 most misunderstood feature on these older FORDS. A Tuneup must be done on your bench per manuals. Preliminary testing then performed before mounting unit on the engine. The DIST is mounted only one correct way but can be forced down 180 DEG off which will cause the base to bust at first power - see pix. If your unit looks like this, this is the case and the base needs to be replaced. Breaker Points are gapped at .015" and must be right - no hand grenades or horseshoe guessing, with no mis-aligned contacts. Some points sold today are junk and can't be gapped correctly. Best to use the STANDARD IGNTION/BLUE STREAK ones, p/n FD-6769X, NAPA usually sells them. Option #2 is the TISCO ATK6FF Set. ALL '39 - '50 FORDs used the front mount distributor. This also requires the use of the OEM BALLAST RESISTOR in the circuit as well, no exceptions. Use the WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR for all correct ways to wire these.

COIL STATIC TEST:

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN - FRONT MOUNT DIST IS 180 DEG OFF:

OEM 6V WIRING PICTOGRAMS:">

FRONT MOUNT 12V WIRING PICTOGRAMS:

OEM BALLAST RESISTOR:

Tim Daley (MI)

It's fine. Some are less than 1 ohm.

Test coil output by how far the spark jumps. Does it jump 1/4" in open air?

Do you have 6.35 volts, points open, at the coil?

Thanks for your reply. Bruce. I checked for spark jump and that is good, as is the voltage to the points.
I did adjust the timing also with my Old Hokie jig.
Just can’t get it to fire up and the carb is flooding and over flowing on every attempt ?

Replace the plugs. You flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in brake cleaner.

The usual cause of gas dripping out of the carb throat and flooding is operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.

Appreciate your advice Bruce. I am going to do a compression test tomorrow. Thinking a stuck valve or more from sitting, might be the cause of gas not atomizing in the carb?
Will try your starting technique. also.

I think that's a long shot.

You have spark, so fix the carb and clean the plugs.

10-4 , will do that first, and thank you !
Forecast is 48 degree F. tomorrow, unheard of in February in Vermont.
Good tractor working weather.