Looking at rebuild kits. Do most here use the wire bail connection to the float and needle or not ?
Also , is the rubber tip needle any advantage to steel ?
I only run ethanol free fuel.

HiYa Barry-
The OEM Valve & Needle Seat Assembly was all brass and had a fiber gasket under the seat. Why someone decided they needed to change the needle and add a stupid extra clip is beyond me. Just an extra part that can get lost or missed when rebuilding the carb. The new style with the extra clip usually has a Viton tip. They were never steel. I've never had any issues with the OEM brass parts. I've even reused old ones with a touch up on the point in a pinch. I suppose the jury is still out on how new compares to old since no research and data has been done that I'm aware of. Many opinions abound as with other parts and systems like which spark plug is best, but there’s no data to back up these claims. There are some carb kits that have the solid brass parts, with a triangular shape needle and some have a Viton tip. I only buy the TISCO Carb Kits. I’ve tried other suppliers off ebay and had part fit and function issues. Most all M/S Parts are brass, internal, and external. Springs, the four 12-24 screws and lockwashers, drain plug, ratchet stop and thumbscrew (on TSX33), studs, nuts, lockwashers, and maybe few more are steel. Seals are felt or rubber. Choke and throttle plates and their screws and washers are brass. I’ve used some cheaper kits that had steel parts and had issues with them fitting right. Some had metric screws. Once I had a new choke shaft that wouldn’t fit thru right and the plate wouldn’t align correctly. Never again do I buy those cheap kits. Another reason why I saved all the old parts in coffee cans when I did rebuilds. You never know when you might need one. New as original solid brass Floats and Venturis are available at about $20 each but I have never bought one. I refuse to use a plastic Float or Venturi. I get the TISCO KITS, ATK6FF or C545V for the N-SERIES and there are other models for the later M/S Carbs.

TISCO CARB KIT – TYPICAL:

MY CARB TOOLS:

Tim Daley (MI)

I'm with Tim on the needle valve, I much prefer the original non-rubber tip originals, but they are hard to find. I save any that I come across. Also I've found that setting the floats to 9/32" is very important to prevent flooding on my 9N and 8N tractors.

Steve-O -
Check your email. I sent you a msg and no reply yet. I also tried to call but your VM says cannot go thru - mailbox not set up. It is urgent so plz respond ASAP.

Tim Daley (MI)

Yes, who determined the Viton tip was better design? Opinions abound, facts and data are hard to find. Ditto too, for the extra clip. Yet this is another reason why I only buy the TISCO Carb Kits. My TISCO C546V Kit for the Ford N-Series TSX-33 & TSX-241 have the OEM style valve seat needle and NO extra clip, but it does have the Viton tip.

TISCO CARB KIT C546V; for TSX33 & TSX241:

I've used a 9/32" drill as my Float Setting Gage for years with no issues whatsoever. The OEM first N carbs were specified with a special GO/NO GO Application Gage to set the float level with. Specifically, the "GO" is spec'd at .260" and the "NO-GO" is spec'd at .297". 9/32" falls about at the mean, .281". Later Manuals changed the spec to 1/4"; a slightly lower value than the original, with no high or low value given. FORD used the 1/4" setting in all future manuals after. You can use whichever you prefer. Seems some had flooding problems so may be why it was changed. FORD engineers changed things often and rarely offered an explanation.

FORD JULY 1947 MPC - CARB SETTINGS:

Tim Daley (MI)

I had set my floats using the 1/4" spec and had repeated flooding problems and then I picked up on the 9/32" spec and adjusted the level and so far have had no further flooding and easy starts. I also have taken both the carbs apart and surfaced the bowl gasket face on the cross table of my mill using sticky back 180 grit sand paper before setting the float levels which ensures a good seal of the float bowl area from the intake stream.

That wire is a mechanical aid to pull the needle down and diminish the possibility of it getting stuck. The rubber tip is also supposed to be giving a better seal that the original steel unit.

I expect that the wire bale is a crutch, needed because of the non-metal tip.